打工仔與葡萄酒 Salary Man and Wine

Deusyls 2005

2011-11-27T12:43:00.000+08:00

這瓶由朋友在婚宴帶來的葡萄酒，南法出產的VdP，用的郤是正宗隆河的葡萄。
酒體非常豐厚，香氣濃烈，以柑橘頪黃果(ctirus fruit)為主，礦物感頗重。
入口圓潤，帶點點蜂蜜香，幾乎誤以為是白梢南(Chenin Blanc)釀造的!
十分不錯，希望有機會再試新的年份!

Glenfarclas Highland 12 Years Single Malt

2011-11-03T12:31:00.000+08:00

重香料辛辣味，泥煤味亦頗濃，加上輕輕的乾果，另頪選擇!

海軍鬥水兵

2011-10-13T21:20:00.002+08:00

無聊的在網上瀏覽葡萄酒資訊，忽然看到一篇有關日本市場的文章的連結，由於對該市場的認識不多，於是抱著「八卦兼好學」的態度看看該文。

不看還好，一看真的不得了，原來該文章其實是講香港的市場，只是標題弄錯了。心想這麼大意的錯誤，這機構還真的有點過份。可是這只是一個小開始。

該文章是節錄一位來自香港葡萄酒業界人士的演講，詳細內容還是留待各位自行細閱，倒是有數點我想跟大家分享研究一下。

文章一開始指出香港葡萄酒業界競爭越來越大，而顧客的要求亦越來越高，需求亦由多年前以入門級葡萄酒為主，發展到今天市場以頂級佳釀為主。

不知是講者太年輕還是我的記憶有所偏差，香港的葡萄酒市場發展方向應跟上述形容剛好相反。十多廿年前香港的葡萄酒市場還非常細小，產品是以貴價葡萄酒主導市場。當年售賣葡萄酒的專門店可以說是寥寥無幾，還記得剛開始對葡萄酒產生興趣的自己，要專程坐車到中環交易廣場的「人頭馬酒商」看看，而店內大多數貨品均是以波爾多列級酒庄為主，窮等人家如我還是只好到超市買紙盒裝平價酒去嘗試。直到近年葡萄酒開始普及，入門級葡萄酒才開始在不同的店舖大量出現，初學者的選擇才漸漸增多。

文中亦提及香港已發展成為「亞洲最成熟的葡萄酒市場」。不是妄自菲薄，但看到這句，還是有點夜郎自大的感覺。亞洲當中有極多市場成熟程度絕不可能低於香港。就以單以台灣和日本為例，葡萄酒的人均消耗量或飲家對葡萄酒的認識相信已高於香港。香港自廢除了葡萄酒稅後發展得最成功的應是葡萄酒拍賣行業，說香港是「亞洲最活躍的葡萄酒拍賣市場」倒還可以。

我本身不是業界人士，所以很多資訊也只是道聽塗說或個人感覺。但以我有限的認識，我怎也想不通馬爾背克葡萄(Malbec)會是在香港越來越受歡迎的葡萄酒種類，起碼以我身邊會喝葡萄酒的朋友中，沒有幾多人對人對這種類有很大的興趣。當然我明白這演講的對象是阿根廷的業界人士，所以內容想討好他們也可以理解，但捏曲事實去迎合人家絕不是值得鼓勵的做法。

擔任主講嘉賓是一項光榮且責任重大的工作，一來是為推廣業界的工作出一分力，二來更是讓人了解業界的專業程度的機會。如演講內容未能反映事實的全部，除了會令講者本身的形象受損外，更會對整個業界做作負面影響。而主辦單位對挑選主講嘉賓亦應有嚴格標準，對講者的背景及份量應有充分透徹的了解，而非隨便找個人來濫竽充數。話雖如此，我只是非行內人士一名，以上亦純屬我個人主觀意見，如有錯漏，還望多多指教。

2007 Ardales Tempranillo Crianza

2011-09-29T19:29:00.000+08:00

這瓶因貪心想拿到酒舖贈品而買的西西班牙酒並不太差，頗充足的紅果，香氣不俗，入口酸甜倒平衡，隨後出現陣陣朱古力和咖啡的桶香，價錢只是百餘塊，還想要求甚麼!

Sacchetto Prosecco

2011-09-15T19:26:00.000+08:00

忘了何時在雪櫃放了這瓶超市貨，隨手把她開了，不算難喝，簡簡單單，帶點雪梨，有些橘子，更像玉泉忌廉，燒烤時應蠻可口的!

Cristalino Cava

2011-08-31T19:18:00.001+08:00

我稱呼這瓶 Cristalino Cava 為"老翻Cristal"，質素而言及不上正版既十分一的可口，但價錢只是正版的五十分一，所以總括的說 - 還可以!

2004 La Spinetta Barbaresco Starderi

2011-08-10T19:13:00.000+08:00

這瓶2004的犀牛是上星期晚飯的剩餘物資，在雪櫃睡了一整個星期後，變得非常成熟可口，熟苺布冧南棗等果香誘人，酸度足但卻不突兀，還有大量發展及成熟的空間，好酒!

New website for English sparkling wine (Decanter News)

2011-07-25T13:05:00.004+08:00

(image from contexttravel.com)

1. 呢個website(http://www.sparklingenglishwine.com)個logo幾靚!
2. 如果我國都有類似網頁, 咁國內酒業就真係成熟了!

Link to Decanter.com

2010 Bordeaux

2011-07-04T22:12:00.003+08:00

剛收到2010波爾多酒花的消息，應該已經是非常的克制了!
有興趣的朋友可以看看各大酒行比較一下!

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2010 Bordeaux: Lafite Rothschild 98-100 Points Robert Parker

The world's most sought after wine, Lafite Rothschild, available at a special parcel price of £6,150 per 6 bottle case, together with a 12 bottle case of its sister property Rieussec.

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Vinexpo 'will return' to America (reported by Decanter.com)

2011-06-07T18:52:00.003+08:00

唔好以為香港真係有啲咩優勢，邊度有機會揾錢啲人就會去邊﹗
(按此轉載到Decanter.com的相關報導)

飲酒就是求分數嗎?

2011-04-15T19:45:00.004+08:00

(click to enlarge image)

其實...
分數真的那麼重要嗎?

Chocolate and Wine Tasting

2011-03-30T13:32:00.001+08:00

(click to enlarge the image)

雖然唔係啲咩超靚酒同朱古力, 不過幾十蚊十分抵玩!

Riesling Dinner

2011-03-26T18:39:00.004+08:00

(click to enlarge image)
Ponti這個酒宴似乎值得一試!

Basic Bourgogne

2011-03-19T03:28:00.002+08:00

咁樣一套，為起都係兩百鬆啲一支，可以一試喎！

Bodegas Lan Master Class

2011-03-15T01:28:00.006+08:00

Master Class 呢個詞彙真係用到有啲濫...

神之水滴

2011-02-24T13:50:00.004+08:00

真係抵到呢...
!>_<#

GDV Latest Promotion - The Power of France

2011-01-26T09:48:00.006+08:00

(click image to enlarge)
睇到GDV電郵來的價目表
深感前特首的遠見
果然「中國好、香港好」!

Bonhams Auction – 23 Nov 2010

2010-11-16T02:18:00.004+08:00

本年十一月大概是香港葡萄酒界的大日子，業界中各方人士都忙得不可開交，這忙碌的相信起碼要持續到十二月才有可以休息的時間，希望大家會繼續努力！

在這段熱鬧的日子中，各間葡萄酒拍賣行絕對是當中最忙的一員。其中比較有趣的是邦瀚斯拍賣行(Bonhams)在十一月廿三日舉行的拍賣，因為他們將進行一次威士忌拍賣。這次拍賣共有150組佳釀可供競投，其實除了威士忌之外還包括六組干邑，而其餘的144組威士忌中，種類煩多，不同酒廠、年份、風格，當中更有部分遠至三十年代的單一年份威士忌，極之罕有。印象中這類型的純威士忌拍賣是頭一趟在港舉行，喜好威士忌的劉伶不要錯過這機會去找心頭好。

要注意的是這次拍賣中很多美酒仍未完稅，所以考慮出價時要留意這額外的作本。忽發奇想，財政司司長會否將烈酒的稅項也取消呢？

另特此聲明這篇不是新聞稿或鱔稿，只是筆者覺得有責任將這類特別的拍賣資訊廣告天下，從而推廣葡萄酒及烈酒在香港發展。當然，如各拍賣行舉行有趣試酒會的話，本人也會不避嫌地出席！

I'm back

2010-11-09T19:23:00.002+08:00

懶惰了兩年，我想該再重新開始了。

Time to restart, I think.

148E VENTE DES VINS DES HOSPICES DE BEAUNE

2008-11-14T01:48:00.002+08:00

唉，星期日(十一月十六日)就係拍賣會，但係今日先收到資料，有無攪錯﹖﹗
佳士得，可以做得好啲嗎﹖
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The auction will be held on the coming Sunday (16 Nov 2008), but the catalog was not delivered until today, how come?!
Christie's, can you improve next time?

Official website of "148E VENTE DES VINS DES HOSPICES DE BEAUNE" by Christie's

Wine Auction by Christie's Hong Kong

2008-11-11T00:11:00.004+08:00

今天收到佳士得十一月廿九日在香港第一次拍賣的資料，老實說無論是估價或是拍賣的規模，個人覺得都比不上十一月十五日由Acker Merrall & Condit舉辦的拍賣會。希望佳士得在往後的日子會越做越好吧﹗
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Received the catalog of Christie's Auction to be conducted on 29 Nov 2008. However, I personally feel that no matter in terms of estimated price or scale, this auction is not as attractive as the one to be conducted by Acker Merrall & Condit on 15 Nov 2008. Anyway, hope Christie's will be doing better in the near future for other auction and wine related events.
Christie's Finest and Rarest Wines Auction on 29 Nov 2008

Adorable gift!!!

2008-11-07T21:38:00.003+08:00

太感動喇，真是窩心的小禮物，遲些一起喝吧﹗
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What a nice gift, thank you so much, let's drink it later!

Acker Merrall & Condit Auction - Hong Kong II

2008-11-06T00:00:00.003+08:00

今期本拍賣刊物的相片拍得漂亮了極多，起碼那些不知所謂的金元寶沒有再出現。

雖然有不少拍賣品也挺划算，如504瓶Krug估計成交價只是約四十萬港元(Lot 465B)，但經濟環境那麼的不濟，相信成交不會太突出。
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The photos are much better this time!

But in view of the poor economic environment, I do not think there will be stunning prices for the items even though some of them are very reasonable, such as HK$400,000 for 504 bottles of Krug!

Acker Merrall & Condit Auction Site

Arrival!!!

2008-11-04T19:44:00.004+08:00

到了，請大家提貨吧!
這次有點太瘋狂了吧!
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Arrived, please arrange collection!
Too crazy this time!

Maestro of Piedmont; an Opulent Fine Wine Gala by GAJA

2008-10-24T18:38:00.004+08:00

一句講哂：黐 X 線！
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What a crazy price!

Didier Dagueneau dies

2008-09-30T15:23:00.002+08:00

Didier Dagueneau, one of the greatest Sauvignon Blanc producers in the world, has died in a flying accident at the age of 52.

Dubbed 'one of the greatest winemakers of our generation' by renowned consultant Denis Dubourdieu, Dagueneau was known worldwide as an outspoken and brilliant winemaker.

Unlike many winemakers in the Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre regions, Dagueneau did not start his career in wine and raced sidecars in his youth. He said it was only after 'two falls in quick succession' that he went into winemaking.

Even after settling on winemaking, he remained true to the pursuit of reckless sports, making a name for himself in the world of sled dog racing, in which he won the European and world championships.

He was killed yesterday, in a microlite accident in the Dordogne region of France. According to reports, the microlite stalled after take-off, plunging 50m before hitting the ground. One other person was seriously injured.

Constantly on the quest to make the greatest Sauvignon Blanc in the world, he produced several wines from vineyards scattered around his winery in St-Andelin, in Pouilly Fumé. Notable wines included Buisson-Renard (orginally the vineyard was called Buisson-Ménard, until a renowned French wine writer misread the label), Pur Sang, and Silex ?perhaps his most famous wine.

Dagueneau also produced the exhorbitantly-priced Asteroïde cuvée from 18 lines of ungrafted vines. He also made wines from a vineyard in the steep Monts-Damnés region of Sancerre, and produced a sweet Jurancon with friend Guy Pautrat.

Known as the 'wild man of the Loire', Dagueneau was equally notorious for his outspoken opinions, frequently attacking winemakers in the region for their lax attitude towards winegrowing and winemaking practices.

He was equally critical of members of his family.

'I had a few scores to settle with the family,' he said. 'So I decided to make wine, to make better wine than them. That was my first motivation. So I decided to make the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world. Not at all pretentious for someone who's been making wine for two years.'

He us survived by his partner Suzanne, and four children.

(Copied news from Decanter.com on 18 Sept 2008 - Link)

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各路炒家又有好藉口去推高酒價!

The speculators are going to have good reasons for pushing up the price again!

Jayer Echézeaux Dinner by Christie's

2008-08-18T17:22:00.010+08:00

Jayer Echézeaux Dinner
18:30~22:30, Wednesday 24th September 2008
Private Dining Room, The Square, 6-10 Bruton Street, London W1J 6PU
£2245 per person

Henri Jayer (1922–2006) is widely regarded as having been the greatest Burgundy vigneron of his generation. He began making wine at his father’s domaine in 1945. By the late 1970s Jayer’s fame was considerable, in part due to what is referred to as the ‘Jayer Style’ or the ‘Jayer Method’ – mostly what today we might consider fairly common practices – hard pruning, low low yields, 100% de-stemming, cold pre-ferment maceration, and – perhaps more controversially – 100% new oak maturation. Jayer was also known for very careful élévage – the looking after of the barrels of wine as they matured. The results however, were really quite exciting, and it led to a new generation of winemakers following Jayer’s methods, though perhaps seldom surpassing his results. Today these classic wines are rare and extraordinarily expensive. It has taken two years to assemble just these few carefully sourced examples.

Understanding Jayer’s wines is complicated by leasing / production sharing arrangements. In the case of Echezeaux, Jayer made wines under his own label – Domaine Henri Jayer, and for his brother Georges in what is referred to as Domaine Georges & Henri Jayer. In 1985 Henri’s nephew by marriage Emmanuel Rouget established his own domaine and came to work for Henri Jayer. Thus, three labels of Echézeaux can be found for vintages from 1985 through to 1995. As Clive Coates explained in 1997:

The arrangement with Rouget is the usual share-cropping one. Rouget gets half the fruit. In fact all the wine is made together, so what happens in effect is that half is labelled as Emmanuel Rouget – half of each of the three family plots of Echézeaux (totalling 1.43ha), for instance – the rest is bottled under one of the Jayer brothers’ names. But it is all the same wine. (1997), Côte d’Or: A Celebration of the great Wines of Burgundy, London, p497.

Henri Jayer – ‘Mis en bouteille par Henri Jayer, Viticulteur a Vosne-Romanée (Côte d’Or) – France’ Note the difference in crest used by the Henri bottles (above) and the Georges bottles (below).

Georges & Henri Jayer – ‘Produit, Vinifié, Élevé et Mis en bouteille par Henri Jayer, Georges Jayer Propriétaire a Vosne-Romanée – France’

Emmanuel Rouget – ‘Mis en bouteille à Vosne-Romanée par Emmanuel Rouget, Vigneron a Nuits-Saint-Georges – Côte-d’Or – France’

Rouget used a Jayer-type label, with no crest until 1992. From 1993 he used a new type of label which includes the same crest as found on the ‘Georges & Henri Jayer’ labels.

2000 Georges & Henri Jayer 2000 Emmanuel Rouget
1995 Emmanuel Rouget 1993 Emmanuel Rouget
1996 Georges & Henri Jayer 1989 Georges & Henri Jayer 1988 Georges & Henri Jayer
1990 Henri Jayer 1990 Georges & Henri Jayer 1990 Emmanuel Rouget
1985 Henri Jayer 1985 Georges & Henri Jayer 1985 Emmanuel Rouget
1983 Henri Jayer 1978 Henri Jayer

As well as presenting an opportunity to enjoy these great wines together with the 2 Michelin starred standard of environment, cuisine and service at The Square, this dinner event presents a rare opportunity to understand –
· The differences, if any can be discerned (allowing for corks and differences in provenance), between the different bottlings – in the case of 1985 and 1990 we shall have all three
· The transition in influence from Jayer at his peak through to just beyond his effective retirement

· The ‘Jayer Style’, over ten vintages and fifteen bottlings of Echezeaux

The event will be moderated by widely acclaimed Burgundy expert and the most genial of hosts, Anthony Hanson MW. A dinner for the serious Burgundy or fine wine enthusiast not to miss.

Tickets: conact Aiko at aiko@finewineexperience.com, or on 0845 833 5688.

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這個酒宴，老實說，我個人真的是覺得非常值得去的！單是看十五支已可算是「神水」境界的葡萄酒，再加上有葡萄酒大師的解說，真是非常吸引！當然，要動用港幣三萬多元去吃一餐，而且更是要專程飛到倫敦出席，絕對不是一般打工仔如我可以做到的！但，香港的富豪們，我認真的建議大家可以好好考慮一下！

有人問我是否跟Christie's有甚麼關係，多次介紹他們的活動。我要澄清一下，我跟Christie's這拍賣行任何關係也沒有，只是見到他們有不同的高質素活動便覺得值得轉載一下，希望可以推動本土葡萄酒相關活動的發展罷了。倒是Christie's如有任何意見，我真的想聽聽。要是覺得我的資訊有助他們推廣業務而想請我喝兩瓶酒的話，我定切會連聲多謝的啊！

This wine dinner, altough cost more than HK$30,000, I think it is a "must-go" function if you can afford the money and time. The 15 bottles of wine can all be called legend, and chances to taste them are not frequent, actually should be rare! So, rish guys, please consider this seriously!

Someone asked me whether I am related to Christie's, I have to clarify that I am not related to the auction house in any aspect. I just think such high quality wine events should be introduced to wine lover in Hong Kong, hoping that the industry can improve in the way like that. In case Christie's wish to let me know their comments or wish to offer me one or two free bottles, I would be more than welcome to have that!

Penfolds Masterclass Presented by Peter Gago, Penfold's Chief Winemaker

2008-08-05T00:21:00.003+08:00

Please find details below regarding our Penfolds Masterclass on 29 September 2008.

Penfolds Masterclass

Presented by Peter Gago, Penfold’s Chief Winemaker

We invite you to join us for a tutored, evening tasting on Monday 29 September 2008 at 6.30pm, Christie’s 8 King Street, St. James, SW1Y 6QT. A very special collection of wines from the 1990 vintage has been chosen by Peter Gago specifically for this exciting event. This will be a very rare opportunity to taste these exceptional wines in the company of Penfold’s Chief Winemaker.

1990 Penfolds Bin 389

1990 Penfolds Bin 407

1990 Penfolds Bin 707

1990 Penfolds St Henri

1990 Penfolds Bin 90A

1990 Penfolds Bin 920

1990 Grange

2004 Penfolds Bin 60A

We anticipate that demand for places may outstrip the limited availability, so recommend early applications.

Places: £ 125 per person.

To reserve a place for this event please contact Noah May on 020 7752 3314 or email to nmay@christies.com or Antonia Essex on 020 7752 3101 or email to aessex@christies.com Please make cheques payable to Christie, Manson & Woods Ltd. If you wish to make a credit card payment, please send written confirmation to Noah May by fax on 020 7752 3023, or by post to Wine Department, Christie’s, 85 Old Brompton Road, London, SW7 3LD.

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雖然計埋要成港幣二千，不過個人覺得可以有機會試下90A, 920同60A都已值回票價，但香港有無酒商夠膽攪？

ALthough it cost about HK$2,000, but I personally think the three bottles of 90A, 920 and 60A really worth a try! The problem is - any merchant in Hong Kong can do this?

Drunk (Chinese only)

2008-07-04T18:15:00.002+08:00

智力測驗：酒醉後在公園昏迷不醒，倒頭大睡後會有甚麼後果？

A) 被蚊蟲叮至渾身紅腫痕癢，痛苦難耐；
B) 口袋中的手提電話及隨身物品(如雨傘)不知掉到那兒；
C) 連續數天胃口不振，精神散緩，腸胃不適，喝多多「寶礦力」及吃多多「即食麵」也無濟於事；
D) 被主子嚴厲申斥，要監守行為直至另行通告；
E) 短期不敢與葡萄酒有接觸；
F) 以上皆是。

[特別鳴謝Dee哥的豔照增添本文的真實感！]

Wine Bloggers' Conference

2008-06-13T01:28:00.003+08:00

香港其實都有條件攪返次喎!
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What about taking this forward in Hong Kong?

Official web site: http://winebloggersconference.org/

Australia's Wine Tasting Challenge

2008-06-06T11:58:00.001+08:00

從台灣網友Alex的「澳洲品酒筆記」中得知這個令人充滿成功感的遊戲，絕對要向大家推薦。但要拿滿分的話，大家也要下下苦功的啊﹗

Australia's Wine Tasting Challenge
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Learnt from Australian wine expert Alex about this game, it is really a game to enhance self-confidence! Definitely worth trying!

Australia's Wine Tasting Challenge

Real Blind Tasting

2008-06-03T01:09:00.003+08:00

Vinexpo得到的葡萄酒，大家猜猜是甚麼﹖
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Wine got from Vinexpo, guess what are these?

Acker Merrall and Condit Wine Auction

2008-05-21T01:12:00.002+08:00

收到Acker Merrall & Condit的拍賣場刊，只有一個感覺：非常落本﹗
粗略看過，估價不太吸引，拍賣當日看看可有時間去一去﹗

Received the catelog from Acker Merrall & Condit, what a grand printing!
Roughly gone through the content, the estimated price are not too attractive. Let me see whether I can spare time to attend on the auction day.

Bordeaux Wine Tasting

2008-05-14T20:20:00.003+08:00

(click the image for larger view)

主觀地覺得值得一試，有時間去一看無妨。
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Subjectively, I think this tasting worth a try.

Chateau Musar Lecture 15-May-08

2008-04-28T17:40:00.006+08:00

SPOON Presents Chateau Musar of Lebanon

A Unique Wine tasting Evening with Decanter Magazine's
First “Wine Man of the Year”, Serge Hochar

SPOON by Alain Ducasse welcomes Mr. Serge Hochar, owner of Lebanon's acclaimed Chateau Musar, for a special wine tasting evening on Thursday, May 15th showcasing ten different Musar wines.

Enjoy a unique opportunity to taste one of the world’s top 30 wines (as honoured by Champagne Louis Roederer in its “Diner des 30”) as personally introduced by Serge Hochar, acclaimed winemaker and Decanter Magazine’s first ever “Wine Man of the Year”.

May 15, 2008 from 7:00pm to 9:30pm at the SPOON Bar

The evening begins at 7:00pm with the 2004 Chateau Musar Rose and 1999 Chateau Musar White, served with SPOON canapés.

Then from 7:30 pm – 8:45pm, winemaker Serge Hochar presents a technical wine tasting showcasing:

● 1989 Chateau Musar white
● 2001 Hochar Red - 2nd label
● 2000 Chateau Musar Red
● 1998 Chateau Musar Red
● 1997 Chateau Musar Red
● 1980 Chateau Musar Red (half bottle)
● 1977 Chateau Musar Red (half bottle)
● 1975 Chateau Musar Red (half bottle)

Following the technical tasting, enjoy more Chateau Musar wine, served with a selection of SPOON hors d’oeuvres including Lamb Skewers, Honey Glazed Duck, Grilled Mediterranean Vegetables and Clove Cheese from SPOON Chef Tjaco van Eijken’s native Netherlands.

This unique wine tasting is limited to 30 persons.
HK$1,200 + 10% service per person

For details, please click here.

有少少興趣，唔知有無人都想去呢?

A little bit interested in this tasting, anyone will attend?

Ch. Latour Gala Dinner on May 26 (Mon)

2008-04-10T18:10:00.002+08:00

真係唔知講乜好，只係知道香港應該真係有好多有錢人!!!

There "should be" lots of millionaire in Hong Kong!!!

CHRISTIE'S Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Tasting & Dinner

2008-04-04T15:59:00.009+08:00

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Tasting & Dinner

Christie's Directors' Boardroom, 8 King Street, London SW1Y 6QT

6.30 pm Thursday 13th November 2008

Christie's Wine Department in conjunction with the Fine Wine Experience are delighted to announce this tasting and dinner featuring the superlative wines of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

The evening will begin with a tasting of the following:

2001 Echézeaux
2001 Grands-Echézeaux
2001 Romanée St-Vivant
2001 Richebourg
2001 La Tâche
2001 Romanée-Conti

This will be followed by a delicious four-course dinner accompanied by:

2001 Montrachet
1986 Montrachet
1991 La Tâche
1990 La Tâche
1959 Grands-Echézeaux
1959 Richebourg
1959 La Tâche
1959 Romanée-Conti
1989 Romanée-Conti
1971 Romanée-Conti

This memorable evening is available for £2950 per person. Places are extremely limited. Dress code: Jacket & Tie. 6.30pm start.

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為返港紙四皮幾嘢，唔知Christie's Hong Kong會唔會夠膽喺香港都攪返場呢﹖

It costs more than HK$40,000 for this magnificent event, I am very interested to know whether Christie's Hong Kong will organize similar stuff in Hong Kong!

Sweet Gift!!!

2008-02-01T10:21:00.000+08:00

真是令人愉快的禮物，味道很不錯呢﹗
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A really lovely sweet gift, delicious!

Wine Tax

2008-01-28T19:15:00.000+08:00

上星期有幸出席了一個宴會，飯後跟多位葡萄酒業界人士討論起酒稅問題，我說今年似乎要求減稅的情況沒去年那麼熱烘烘，但他們卻明示/暗示今年再大有機會減稅，原因是：

1. 業界已多次提出減稅要求，否則香港葡萄酒業很難成為亞太區的交易中心；
2. 澳門大有可能會完全撤銷葡萄酒稅(現時酒價的15%，香港則為酒價的40%)，若香港不減稅，除了做不成交易中心外，走私問題會日益嚴重；
3. 經濟好，財政有盈餘，可當作還富於民。

可是，以我看香港特區政府的一貫行徑，我則不太樂觀。因為葡萄酒稅由去年酒價的80%大幅減至40%，對於一個如此官僚及保守的政府，連續兩年減稅的機會似乎不大。就算是再減，大概明年才說吧。

希望港府會令我跌一次眼鏡吧！
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After attending a luncheon held last week, I have a chance to discuss views on wine tax in Hong Kong with some industry members. They all reckoned that there will be a great chance for tax cut again this year because:

1. The trade has requested the Government to reduce the tax or else Hong Kong can never be the wine trade centre in the Asian-Pacific Region;
2. Macau will probably eliminate wine tax to encourage trading, which means she will be a strong competitor to Hong Kong if there is no change of the tax rate in Hong Kong. Also, smuggling will be a huge problem; and
3. The economy has been great in 2007, it would be a high time to return the wealth to public.

BUT, from my own point of view, I am not too optimistic for a tax reduction because the tax rate has been reduced from 80% of the price of wine to 40% last year, chances for tax cut in two consecutive years may not be that large for such a bureaucratic and conservative government. They probably think that it would be more appropriate to do so next year.

Again but, I do hope the Government can make a surprise to me.

Casual Dinner @ Tim's Kitchen (in progress)

2008-01-19T15:04:00.000+08:00

新的一年，我要好好改善自己的工作及生活方式，亦要勤力點出席飯局，多點更新博格。坐言起行，寫寫剛出席完的晚宴吧！

作為我二○○八年的第一炮，是夜「大雜燴」式品酒宴，真的甚徹底地解決了我個多月來的「酒癮」。但亦由於太多酒款，我又沒有仔細做筆記，唯有把自己印象較深的數瓶酒寫下來，還望各酒友作點補充指教。

Chateau Lascombes 1995
此葡萄酒印證了「葡萄酒的怎的模樣，一定是要親身嚐試，而不是看人家怎寫怎說」。之前聽過不少人說此莊九十年代如何不濟，直至近年才有點起色云云。但此酒表現卻是挺不錯，不算濃郁的香氣中有黑加侖子、雪茄盒，咖啡等，中等酒體及酸度，比較瘦削，但也算得上可口及典雅。當然以物值角度來說好未必很出色，但以酒的素質來說尚且不俗。

Chateau L’Angelus 1983
幾近無械可擊的一瓶酒。酒色仍十分深紅，但邊緣已開始有點點褐色。香氣成熟討好，果味充沛之餘亦帶有礦物、松露、咖啡等複雜的氣味，我特別喜愛她那種像陳皮梅、嘉應子的咸香，酒體圓潤，單寧已融和，現在正是喝她的高峰時間，好！

Chateau Pichon Baron 1985
相對我喝過其他1985年的左岸葡萄酒，她比較成熟；但以其自己本身的素質來說，她仍有成長的空間。香氣有黑加侖子、熟櫻桃、橡木、煙燻、野菌等；入口比較尖削，單寧仍在，可能赤霞珠的比例較高。不知再好好儲存數載會否更出色。

Chateau Clerc Milon 1999
意料之外的骨肉相稱，開瓶兩個多小時後入口非常柔和，卻不失其本身應有的剛勁，十分典型「普依勒葡萄酒」，相信未來數年是適飲期，不俗！

Chateau Grand-Puy-Lascote 1994
香味誘人，令人垂涎！既有如熟莓、梅子、葡萄乾等成熟的果香，亦有經時間變化出來，如雪茄盒、泥土、瀝青等不同且複雜的第二重香氣，十分美妙。可是入口酒身偏薄及有點過於瘦削，未能承接濃郁的香味，有點可惜。記得聽過一位導師指出，不少波爾多的酒莊經驗過1991-93連續三個特差的年份，在1994年都有點過於過於緊張地提早了收割，因此有部分酒莊的出品較其他年份弱了點，不知這瓶是否同一情況呢？

New Year Wishes

2007-12-30T14:18:00.000+08:00

個多月沒有更新此博格了。原因除了是因為自己的懶散外，忙碌的情況越來越嚴重。自己可騰出來品酒或出席晚宴的時間可說是「低處未算低」！整個十二月我好像只出席過一頓晚飯，當看到酒友們的「八二橫品」、「情迷意大利」等等活動，看得牙癢癢之餘亦有點唏噓，為甚麼要工作至如此地步……

二○○七年是我這打工仔有史以來最忙碌的一年，希望二○○八年會好一點吧！還有啊，酒友們，有甚麼活動也請不要忘了我的份兒啊！

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This blog has not been updated for more than a month because of my busy schedule. When I read the records different event of the wine friends, I am so depressed for the fact of being a salaryman, sigh…

Anyway, just wish 2008 would be better, for me and for all! And, please, my friends, don’t forget me for the wine events!!!

Pinot Mania @ Yung Kee (in progress)

2007-11-24T20:14:00.001+08:00

Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc Reserve 2001
The making of sauvignon blanc with heavy oak treatment, which is a clone of Pouilly Fume, has been one of the successes of Robert Mondavi’s Winery. The wine was in light gold color with very high acidity. Nose was full of smoke and coconut oil, while fruitiness like green apple and pear were still prominent. A forward wine which was definitely a nice starter of the night.

Benoit Chablis 1er cru 2001
Nose with nice buttery and creamy aroma while citrus fruits were clear. A bit out of my expectation was that she was rather simple on palate with little mineral and medium acidity.

Verget Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chenevottes 2003
A very expressive wine with strong creamy vanilla nose, and also ripe yellow and stone fruits like pear, peach, apricot, etc. Bitterness of chardonnay was noticeable on palate, which was balanced by the medium-high acidity and strong fruitiness. Modern style Burgundy white.

Leroy Meursault 1er Cru, Blagny 2002
Leroy is always Leroy, which is equivalent to the term of elegancy and beauty. Nose was not too strong when first poured into glass, maybe affected by the low temperature of the wine. Yet, throughout the night, she just performed like a sophisticated lady who was able to show her attractiveness but not too overwhelmingly. Nice citrus nose and taste, with complexity of gun flint, blossom and white flower.

Chateau de Pommard 1997
Pommard is an area famous for strength of their wine as compare with other regions of Burgundy, and this bottle was a stereotype of Pommard for sure. Full of red fruit like cherry, strawberry, raspberry, etc. while vegetal note of cabbage were all consolidate in the wine. Pronounced nose and palate, a very nice food wine.

Faiveley Echezeaux Grand Cru 2002 (? Not sure the vintage)
If Pommard is the name for strength in terms of area, then Faiveley is the name for power in terms of domaine. Very well structure wine, with strong nose of black and red fruit (blackberry, dark cherry, raspberry, plum, etc.) and strong tannin on palate. The fine tannin and med-high acidity suggested that the wine should have a huge potential for ageing. If I have another bottle of this wine, I would definitely keep her until at least 10 years later.

Georges Roumier Chambolle Musigny 2002
Elegant and traditional style of Burgundy wine, a slim and charming lady indeed. With delicate nose of red fruit and vegetal note, she was a bit overshadowed by the previous two powerful wine. If chances arise, this should be drunk in the first place to let everyone understand her true image.

Bass Philips Premium 2004
New World Pinot Noir which was focus on the performance of fruitiness and balance. Lovely red cherry and strawberry nose, with nice vanilla and caramel note, she was very smooth and balanced on palate. Hint of sweet tone was noted also.

Chateau Pichon Baron 1986
I failed to give her a chance to show herself, as I wrongly believed that she should not be decanted. When first poured into the glass, she was still very close like a shy girl, just showed minor tone of branches, mushroom, green pepper, blackcurrant, herbs. Throughout the night, she evolved into different tastes, black fruit, tea leaves, truffle, etc. were shown more later, but there should be much more room for her to perform better. I suggest keeping her for another 5 years to see the difference.

Chateau Rieussec Sauternes 1989
Medium amber color with oily full body, she should the style of a good aged Sauternes. Very concentrated dried fruit like apricot, raisin, nuts, botrytis favor, and she was a bit out of my expectation that the sweetness is just med-high, which matched with the “goose liver sausage roll” of the night nicely. An interesting food and wine matching experience.

Mini-vertical Tasting of Carruades de Lafite @ Le Mieux (in progress)

2007-11-17T16:17:00.000+08:00

早陣子朋友相約晚飯，說起大家有幾個不同年份的「拉菲仔」(Carruades de Lafite)，於是決定來一個平民版的「副牌拉菲」晚宴。

Kaesler Old Vine Riesling 2005
挺尖銳的一瓶酒，果味濃郁，十分清晰的是熱環境出上的薏思琳。入口味道微甜，有著桃子及青蘋果味道，作為餐前酒也蠻不錯。

Louis Jadot Meursault 2000
梅索就是梅索，是我最喜歡布根地的白酒之一。香氣極誘人，帶梨子、雲尼拿、牛油、礦物等。入口酸度很高卻不會令人牙關打震，柑橘類味道為主，配以點點辛辣，偏向簡單的但卻討人歡心。

Clos du Marquis 1999
跟主牌的「拉斯卡」(Las Cases)一樣，予人第一個印象盡是青澀：青草、青椒、杉木，輕輕的鉛筆屑。不過很快她便進入狀態，黑加侖子為骨幹，帶點點紅果，是配餐的理想葡萄酒。

Carruades de Lafite 1995
開始成熟的一瓶酒，酒邊已有點褐色。黑加侖子、梅子、黑松露的香氣，入口單寧挺順滑，更有礦物及香料的辛辣。晚一點多了些普洱茶的感覺。

Carruades de Lafite 1998
感覺上仍很年青的葡萄酒。開瓶後香氣以香草、薄荷等為主，果味反而欠奉。但漸漸她開始展示黑加侖子，配以礦物及香料味道，跟她的姊姊很相近，只是她仍屬幼嫩，單寧比較實在，而且菱角比較多，要時間將好打磨成圓滑的女孩。

Carruades de Lafite 2002
三瓶酒之中以她的顏色最新鮮，紫紅色的酒身，酒邊帶粉紅。開瓶後仍很緊閉，初落杯時香味不太討好，蘑菇、枝梗及有點點的霉味。使勁的搖杯後，出現了黑莓、紅葡萄等果實味，入口除李子味、辛辣及酒精都比較明顯外，其他的都不太清楚。她是很有潛質的，但大概仍需時間讓她成熟。

Penfolds RWT 1998
喝了一晚法國貨，忽然來一瓶果味香濃，充滿香甜誘人感覺的澳洲佳釀，結果當然是把一眾高傲的法國女孩擊敗。香濃的黑莓、李子、黑櫻桃等等，配上微微的朱古力、肉桂、拖肥、黑胡椒，非常可口，怪不得大家已喝得有點過多時，仍能吸引大夥兒以極速幹掉整瓶酒，一滴也沒有浪費！

Busy Busy Busy!!!

2007-11-10T22:11:00.000+08:00

最近真的忙得不可開交，不要說沒時間更新這博格，連我這打工仔的生活也陷入一片混亂，希望未來的幾個星期可以回復正常吧。

朋友們，祝我好運吧！
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The recent busy times not only stopped me from updating this blog, but also turned my life into a chaotic situation, just hope I can turn everything back to normal in the coming weeks.

Wish me luck please, my friends.

Winery puts new twist on opening a screw cap

2007-10-07T15:51:00.000+08:00

幾乎笑死我!!!
如果去到餐廳個侍酒師真係咁招呼我，我一定會俾多啲貼士!!!
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I burst into laughter when I read this.
In case a sommelier really serve my wine this way, I promise I will pay extra tips for him!!!

(Original article from Telegraph.co.uk)

Dessert as Meal

2007-09-16T16:31:00.000+08:00

有幸得網友kikikuet邀請到其府上參與一次「盤菜」為前菜，甜點為主菜的晚宴。吃甜品當然是配上甜酒的了，當晚各酒友帶來了不同類型的甜酒，我想趁此機會說說部分甜酒的特質 - 「貴族霉」。

或許該先說說為甚麼甜酒會是甜的。相信大家都知道釀造葡萄酒就是用上葡萄汁，經酵母發酵把糖份轉化為酒精。如果葡萄汁的糖份濃度極高，發酵的過程便會於酒精濃度約為15%時停止，因超過該濃度的酒精會把酵母殺死，而剩餘的糖份便會令葡萄酒帶甜味。

那甚麼東西會令葡萄汁中的糖份濃度會極高呢？其中一樣就是「貴族霉」(Noble rot / Botrytis cinerea)。「貴族霉」一種天然的霉菌，通常出玩在時而潮濕、時而乾燥的環境。法國波爾多的蘇玳區(Sauternes)正正是這樣，在入秋時分，該區早上受河流影響而會出現潮濕的濃霧，但太陽出了後又會乾爽起來。

受「貴族霉」侵襲的葡萄中的水份會大部分被抽乾，當把「發霉葡萄乾」進行壓榨後便會得到濃度極高的葡萄汁了。用上這些汁液而釀成的葡萄酒糖份將十分高，酒體一般極豐厚，香氣常帶葡萄乾、乾果、果仁、有些時候亦會有像橡膠及芝士的氣味，更重要的是會有「貴族霉」獨有的氣味。「貴族霉」香氣是怎樣的呢？請恕我這打工仔才疏學淺，形容不了，倒是入口後餘韻的味道中，如有點點甘苦，那就是「貴族霉」的味道了。

其實還有其他情況會得到糖份濃度高的葡萄汁，例如延後收割時間(Late harvest)，天然或人為冷凍成冰的葡萄(Ice wine)等，不過以後有機會再談了。

葡萄酒其中一樣吸引人的地方就是有些時候非筆墨可形容到，而必須要你/妳親身一嚐才會知道。想喝喝甜酒，嚐嚐「貴族霉」的味道嗎？因一大串的葡萄乾可能只有丁點的葡萄汁，成本不輕，即使只是一般質素的產品，半瓶裝也可能索價二、三百港元，想喝好一點嗎，五、六百大元大概走不了。如發現價廉物美的好酒，請記緊通知我這打工仔啊！

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After attending a desert meal organized by kikikuet, I would like to talk about an important factor in sweet / dessert wine: noble rot / botrytis cinerea.

Sweet wines are made with ultra-intense grape juice, which is often the result of noble rot. Noble rot appears in damp and dry alternative appearing places, like Sauternes in autumn. The rot will dry up the grape on vine, and the raisin collected will then be pressed for producing extreme sweet grape juice. After fermentation, the high level of residual sugar in the wine will make her taste sweet.

Usually, aroma of this style of sweet wine include raisin, dried fruit, nuts, sometimes with plastic and cheese, and of course the favour of botrytis. I am sorry that I am too lack of vocabularies to describe botrytis aroma, but the bitterness in the aftertaste of sweet wine are usually caused by botrytis cinerea. There are other styles of sweet wines, such as late harvest, ice wine, etc., but they will be discussed later if chances arise.

Dessert wines in Hong Kong are rather expensive, average ones cost about $200 – 300, while better ones at least take you $500 – 600. Wine is interesting because you will not know her until you try her by yourself. So, be prepared for this sweet lady, and if you catch some nice ones, do let me know.

(Botrytis riesling photo from Wikipedia.org.)

We are the world

2007-09-11T21:27:00.000+08:00

忽然想起此首歌，想起當時的歌曲較現在的耐聽得多，想起MJ也還是黑皮膚的，想起當年種種價廉物美的好東西，想起成長於八十年代的美好。八十年代出產的葡萄酒現在是最佳的品嚐時機，女孩子也是最美麗的時間了(對吧，品酒客？！)，真想攪一趟八十年代的葡萄酒晚宴。酒友們，有興趣嗎？

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Think of this song suddenly, which reminds me every good aspect of the 1980’s. This is the best of time to test wine from the 1980’s, are you interested?

三刀？山刀？ (Chinese only)

2007-09-01T21:46:00.000+08:00

到底一般街市甚少出現的上等魚，在飯店吃時平均要五十至六十元一兩的「富豪級」貴價魚，該是叫作「三刀」還是「山刀」呢？

跟據之前一位飯店的海鮮買手的回覆，這魚應是喚作「山刀」，因其體型與工人上山砍木的開山刀近似而得名，朋友亦說無線電視早前曾有節目提及類似的解釋。但在網上搜尋後，在世界自然基金會的《亞太區活海鮮貿易魚類辨別圖鑑》中竟又找到資料，指該種魚在香港一般被俗稱為「三刀」，英文俗稱為「Whitespot-tail Morwong」。有興趣的朋友可瀏覽以下的網址及文件：

《亞太區活海鮮貿易魚類辨別圖鑑》網頁
有關三刀的資料

那到底是「三刀」還是「山刀」呢？

(photo from deetsang's blog: http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/deetsang/article?mid=873&fid=11)

葡萄酒品嚐實驗 (Chinese only)

2007-08-29T23:00:00.000+08:00

台灣的林裕森老師原來在三月時曾舉辦了一個十分有意思的品酒會，或許說成為品嚐葡萄酒的工作坊可能比較貼切，目的是令每位參加者了解葡萄酒中各種原素的特性。台灣的網友Jimmy為此次活動作了詳細的報導，大家可按下面的連結看看：

「葡萄酒品嚐以及香氣實驗」

我真的很羨慕台灣的朋友可以有機會出席如此有趣及實用的品酒會，不知類似活動在香港舉行的話，會不會有人願意參加？

Unintentional Collection of Old Wine Dinner

2007-08-25T19:02:00.000+08:00

酒友忽然相約吃飯喝酒，當然立刻應允。看到酒單，有點意外，原來酒主「在閒來沒事幹，隨意亂買點東西」的性情影響下，以十分吸引的價錢買下了數瓶佳釀，促成了是次飯局。

1) 1990 Dom Perignon
鮮黃色酒身，汽泡幼小，但比較散亂，是杯子問題還是酒的問題？香氣比較收歛，烤吐司、酵母、桃子、柑橘等均有點點，但亦只有點點。是否未是時候？

2) 1961 Chateau Brane Cantenac
比我更年長的葡萄酒，瓶身的酒標可說是慘不忍睹，但酒本身卻很不錯。野莓子、紅果、肉類及野味的香氣甚討好，喝進口中順滑得不得了。雖然後勁不繼，只勉強支撐到大半小時，但仍是不錯的一瓶老酒。

3) 1990 Chateau Pavie
跟近年的Pavie比較，這位十七歲的少女優雅得多了。紅果、陳皮梅及甘草等味道構成了她的主體，酒身挺纖幼，比近年的出品吸引得多。

4) 1990 Chateau Leoville Las Cases
雖然不是喝過太多年份的Las Cases，但每一次她都是先展現青澀的一面於人前。青椒、蘑菇、枝梗及青草等，很不吸引。可是隨著時光流逝，她卻是越來越惹人喜愛。葡萄乾、熟莓、礦物及甘草等香氣慢慢的滲出來，是否如人一樣要時間了解才知她的吸引之處呢？

5) 1989 Chateau Doisy Vedrines
猶如液態黃金的一瓶好酒，酒身豐厚，有點像油。香氣中充滿焦糖、烤鳳梨、蜂蜜及貴族霉，入口甜度卻不算太早，帶點點貴族霉的甘，極度怡人。
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A wine-mate called for a dinner to share his “unintentional” collection of matured wine, so attractive and I join this gathering without a second of hesitation.

1) 1990 Dom Perignon
Fresh lemon color with fine but scattered bubbles, rather inward and not expressive. Minor tone of toast, yeast, peach and citrus, but just a bit. Does it mean that there is still a long way for her to go?

2) 1961 Chateau Brane Cantenac
A wine even older than me with an ugly label but nice performance. With pleasing wild berries, red fruit, meaty and game nose, she was extremely smooth on palate. Although she was just able to stand for about 45 minutes, I reckon that she was a good wine.

3) 1990 Chateau Pavie
This 17-years-old teenager was much more elegant and beautiful than the recent offspring of Pavie. Red fruit, preserved berries and licorice formed her main body, very fine and attractive girl indeed.

4) 1990 Chateau Leoville Las Cases
Every time I have chance to taste Las Cases, she shows her greenness to people in the first place. Green pepper, mushroom, branches and grass were first noted, not too pleasing indeed. But she became much more adorable later in the night with raisin, ripe berries, mineral and licorice. Is it that she always expresses her true side with someone who is willing to spend time with her?

5) 1989 Chateau Doisy Vedrines
Liquid gold, full body just as if she was oil. Caramel, grilled pineapple, honey and botrytis were noted on nose, she was not too sweet on palate in fact, with minor bitterness of botrytis favour, very nice.

Spoil Café

2007-08-21T21:47:00.001+08:00

有看此博格的朋友都知道我基本上沒寫過甚麼食評，因自問不是一個饞嘴的傢伙，每次跟朋友吃飯我都是喝酒為主，吃東西為次。可是這次真的想寫寫這家小店。

朋友工作完畢後刻意跟我溜到此處吃飯，在不太餓的情況下點了個蘑菇意大利飯(mushroom risotto)和烤安格斯肉眼扒(Angus rib eye)，吃的時候真有點意外的感動。意大利飯做得很傳統，很有咬勁，蘑菇香氣四溢，起司也用得恰到好處，並沒有太膩的感覺。牛扒嘛，外層的焦香竟像帶點點的炭燒味，但店員說只是普通煎鑊做出來的，很有技巧；內裡更是厲害，肉汁豐富之餘滲著點點的血腥，極引起我的食慾。缺點是牛扒本身質素平平亦帶點筋，否則一定更出色。看到鄰桌點的虎蝦(tiger prawn)也十分不俗，有機會要再訪一試。

以小店來說，酒杯尚算齊全，開瓶費要一百大元，下次問問多帶幾瓶的話可否酌量減收。

Spoil Café
G/F Shop 1 & 1A
Sun Street
Wanchai, Hong Kong

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To be honest, I never consider myself as someone who knows dining very well. From my point of view, I would care about wine much more than food in a meal. But, I would like to talk about this small restaurant for my first time.

Entered the shop with my friend after work, and order mushroom risotto and grilled Angus rib eye only as we were not too hungry. I was really impressed by the quality of the food. The risotto was real al dente, with very nice fragrance of mushroom. Use of cheese was just right, almost perfect. For the steak, the crispy surface with tons of juice inside, just the quality of the steak was not optimal, otherwise that would be another perfect dish. The tiger prawn in the next table looked nice too, I probably would try that out next time.

As such a small restaurant, there are plenty of glasses. Corkage is $100/bottle, which I will try to negotiate next time if I have to bring more wine.

Britain's Got Talent

2007-08-17T19:08:00.000+08:00

工作得悶悶，上網找最近給世界各地媒體炒作得比任何藝人也更要看看的Paul Potts，無話可說，他的故事加上現場環境氣氛，的確令人動容，老實說第一次看時我也有一點點的眼泛淚光(另一個給我同樣感覺的歌唱家是Andrea Bocelli)。但相對起Paul的使人感動，我更欣賞只得六歲的Connie Talbot，她那使人沉醉的金桑子，更使人愉快。我忽然想起葡萄酒的世界中，每一次有超級佳釀出現時，她身邊其他的出色產物總會被其光芒淹過，這是上天不公平，還是給其他人考驗的安排嗎……
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While the boring job annoyed me so much during the day, I search Paul Potts, who was the Champion of the “Britain’s Got Talent”. I was really touched by Paul’s story, his amazing performance as well as the atmosphere of the contest. But, indeed, I appreciate the lovely and adorable sound of little girl Connie Talbot even more. This makes me think of the case in the world of wine, whenever there is a superstar appears, the outstanding wine around her will have to live in her shadow. Is this unfair game by the God, or this is some kind of test for others?

Two-and-a-half Pair @ Crown Wine Cellar

2007-08-04T13:04:00.001+08:00

有一段日子沒見過面的朋友忽然相約吃飯喝酒，那管近來工作多忙，下班後即時「飛的」到深水灣徑的「皇冠酒窖」。是夜主題為「布根地」，可是5瓶葡萄酒當中竟出現了兩對相同產區的，到底是我們對布根地的認識太少而只選「大路」產物，還是梅索(Meursault)和香貝丹(Chambertin)真是太吸引人呢？

雖然兩瓶梅索都是最基本的白酒，並沒有列級，可是喝起來也十分美味。簡簡單單的以豐富的果味，如青葡萄、杏脯、桃子等支撐整體表現，配以礦物和喉頭上的微甘作收結。而當中以J-F Coche Dury的果味比較濃郁，而Olivier Leflaive則比較纖幼。可是兩者的酸度也較想像的低，否則兩瓶都會是出色的產物。

看到J-F Coche Dury，不其然想起布根地酒莊與酒莊之間微妙且複雜的關係，又想起網友deetsang也曾提及金杯，大家可以看看大師級人馬的意見：
還是金杯的好！

Blagny則是我首次接觸的產區，可是這瓶酒真的不是太出色。酒身出乎意料的粗糙，香料類的辛辣及酒精都有點過多，不太平衡。雖說是一級田，但我想大概一級之中也有頭尾之分罷。

兩瓶香貝丹(雖然不是很準確的同一區)，有點像老大哥欺負小男孩。Chanson的最基本香貝丹，落杯時的香氣非常吸引，果味挺濃，配上點點像煮白菜的植物氣息，很是黑皮諾或布根地的模範教材，缺點是酸度實在太低，而且欠缺變化，始終小孩子一般都應該是簡簡單單的才像小孩子。那當飽經風霜的特級田老大哥出場又如何呢？香氣頗收儉，隱約地感覺到點點的紅莓乾及潮濕的森林，入口紅果類融為一體，幾乎分不開有甚麼在其中，十分高的酸度令餘韻極之悠長。隨後的時間，每十分鐘她便展現多點不同的感覺，首先不同的果實味道變得清晰明顯，配上特別的味道，例如嘉應子、黑松露、泥土、醬油及陳皮等，越是顯出她的複雜程度。老實說，Louis Remy釀的酒並不是特別出色，但先天條件優厚，加上經長時間熟成而得出此住釀，大概是注定的。

淺酌輕嘗，把酒談歡，跟朋友喝酒談天是一件十分美好的事情。但始終「alcohol is not conducive to good behaviour」，像當晚7個人喝5支葡萄酒後，微醺的感覺還是比酩酊大醉來得舒適。
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How would it be for a pair of Meursault, a pair of Chambertin and a Blagny appear together in a dinner? That was a recent experience I have in Crown Wine Cellar.

2 bottles of Meursault were just showing the powerful fruitiness and vivid style to us. The J-F Coche Dury emphasized on fruit while Olivier Leflaive was more on elegance. Although these two bottles were just simple Bourgogne, they were still lovely to taste except their problem of low acidity.

Blagny was completely new to me, but this rather rough, over spicy and alcoholic wine was definitely not my favourite. She showed the fact that there are always good and bad stuff among 1er Cru.

Finally, two Chambertin, though actually they were from 2 separate areas, just showed how young kid being bullied by strong adult. The Chanson is a very to-style simple Bourgogne - strong red fruit with some vegetal note, simple kid which should be welcomed by lots of people. How about the 22-years old lady? Well, she was a shy girl at first. Most of the fruit characters were not shown clearly and only presented high acidity which made the aftertaste so long. Later, she was just trying to show off her every aspect: different kinds of red fruit together with some “old wine” characters like soy sauce, black truffle, soil, preserved fruits, etc. I personally reckon that Louis Remy was not an extremely outstanding wine-maker, but her assets (Grand Cru) is so strong and the long time of cellaring just made this lady a charming woman.

“Alcohol is not conducive to good behaviour” (I like this sentence very much), and the level of alcohol in my blood was just right on the night.

Hong Kong Book Fair (Chinese Only)

2007-07-23T09:28:00.000+08:00

在書展中發現「城邦」的攤位中竟有林裕森老師的新作「葡萄酒全書」以八折出售，折實港幣320大元，可以接受。此外亦有他去年出版的「酒瓶裡的風景」，折實260元，有興趣的朋友們可以去看看。

Aile d’Argent 1994, AC Bordeaux

2007-07-21T17:52:00.001+08:00

友人從法國遊樂歸來，帶來此瓶住釀，完全出乎我意料之外。

說實的，除了Cadet blanc外我從未喝過「武當(Mouton)」的白酒，所以當接觸此酒時我實在有點招架不住。酒色金黃，酒腳流動速度十分緩慢。香氣濃郁，當中竟滿是乾果(葡萄乾、杏脯乾等)，另有明顯的橡木及煙燻，有酒友形她簡直像「波特酒(port)」。入口果味強橫，當中以菠蘿、李子及桃子為主，酒體豐厚，可是酸度稍稍不足，多喝相信會有點膩的感覺，而且有點已經步入黃昏的感覺。

酒友們，大家有喝過較新年份的嗎？
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My friend came back from France with this nice wine, which was totally out of my expectation.

Actually, I have never tasted this wine before, and I almost lost under this lady’s first attack. Golden yellow colour when slow clawing legs. Very intense aroma with dried fruits (such as raisin, dried apricot, etc.), also with notable oak barrel and smokiness. Some wine-mates said the nose of her was just like Port. On palate, the powerful fruit favour of pineapple, peach and pear was first noted. Totally full body but acidity was a bit too low, which may create a sense of full. Also, it seems that she was passing through her peak and started downhill, should drink her if you have one now.

Dear friends, any comments on newer vintages?

Enjoyable Dinner @ Yung Kee

2007-07-18T00:45:00.000+08:00

真沒想過這晚的食物跟葡萄酒都是那麼的令人喜出望外啊！

Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru 1996
輕輕的土司、酵母及蜂蜜香氣，加上清雅的杏脯和桃子，入口又帶怡人的酸度，跟當晚吃的「雲霧肉」非常匹配。

Wendowree Shiraz 2000
酒友專程由澳洲帶回香港給我試的美酒。濃濃的橡木、雲尼拿及黑莓之中，入口卻不見太膩，胡椒及香料味亦不太突兀，算得上是恰到好處。雖然酒精稍強，但仍是令人喜歡的酒。

Chapoutier Les Varonniers AC Crozes-Hermitage 1994
見到瓶口有點點滲漏，還擔心她會有問題，但結果是令人意外的可口。梅子，紅果再帶點點橡木，入口滑溜之餘亦有些熟酒中的野味及肉類味道，喝得舒服。

Cos d’Estounel 1995
一如想像的仍未熟透。初時較緊閉，香氣帶黑加侖子、橡木、青草、青椒等。入口單寧仍強橫，相信仍要陳年，令人充滿期望。酒友說他仍有5、6瓶存貨，我們便相約在2010年再嚐她。

美酒跟朋友，一個愉快的晚上，人生何求。
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A wonderful night in Yung Kee with friends, great wine and nice food, totally out of my expectation!

Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru 1996
Little toast, yeast and honey, together with peach and apricot, very nice fragrance. Refreshing acidity matched with the pork nicely.

Wendowree Shiraz 2000
A bottle of wine that the friend brought from Australia for me, so touching. Very intense oak, blackberry and vanilla, but it was not “too” full in mouth. Pepper and spice were also very delicate, really nice wine. Albeit alcohol is a bit strong, still she was a charming lady.

Chapoutier Les Varonniers AC Crozes-Hermitage 1994
Little leakage was noted and I worry she was damaged. But she was so delicious that was totally out of my expectation. Plum, red fruit, and slightly oaky. Very smooth in mouth and showed game and meaty, which were signs of mature. So pleasing wine.

Cos d’Estounel 1995
Still young. She was a bit close at first, then showed some typical blackcurrant, oak barrels, grassy and green pepper. Tannin was still hard on palate, and I guess she need more bottle ageing before next tasting. The friend said that he still has 5 or 6 bottles in his cellar, and we booked him for the next bottle in 2010.

What a wonder night!

Life Expectance of Wine

2007-07-15T19:59:00.000+08:00

跟酒友們吃晚飯，本沒甚麼特別，但倒有一瓶酒引起了我想談談一個題目：葡萄酒的壽命。

是次晚飯大部分酒友都是帶來波爾多左、右岸的葡萄酒。其中一位朋友(剛巧是我同事)的酒是Sarget de Gruaud-Larose 2000。由於他之前曾被委派往外地工作，調回香港時他刻意運回大批葡萄酒，可惜運送途中似乎因運輸公司的失誤而熱壞了不了他的收藏品，這瓶酒是其中之一。

可能先入為主，因聽過他的事故，加上開瓶時發覺有點滲漏，所以對該酒可說沒期望。原瓶呼吸了約一小時後倒進杯中，木桶、咖啡及枝梗比較明顯，果味十分隱晦。入口單寧仍然實在，輕至中等酸度卻叫人摸不著果實的味道，心裡不禁跳到結論：壞掉了。

但及後「白襯衣」酒友提出這瓶酒其實仍是給人青青綠綠的感覺，其實是仍有發展及成熟的空間。於是我再倒酒到杯中，細心留意她之後的演變，的確她漸漸浮現出青椒、蘑菇香氣，入口紅果類的酸度亦漸見明顯，但之後便停了下來，再沒甚麼變化。

「白襯衣」酒友指有質素的葡萄酒在受傷過後，其實可通過慢慢的療養回復表現。對於此觀點，我想要留待時間及我的品酒經驗才可印證到，但這瓶「受過傷」的葡萄酒提醒了我一個重點：酒海無涯，任何事也有可能發生，所以千萬不要太快對葡萄酒下結論。

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Tasted a bottle of Sarget de Gruaud-Larose 2000 recently which was originally certified to be dead due to extreme heat during transportation. She expressed oak barrel, coffee and branches after a hour of breathing in the original bottle, but later she showed green pepper, mushroom and red fruit, which was indeed improvement in overall performance.

Tata suggested that quality wine can be “recovered” even after man-made damage. I think I will focus on this to prove whether this theory is correct or not. But this experience clearly gave me a lesson – never jump to conclusion on wine.

Recommendation!!! (Chinese only)

2007-06-28T13:45:00.000+08:00

台灣的林裕森老師即將出版的著作，希望香港的代理會引進該讀物吧。
博客來網路書店 - 葡萄酒全書

Fine Wine Video Clip (Chinese only)

2007-06-23T14:14:00.001+08:00

朋友的店舖在有線電視拍了數段有關葡萄酒的短片

Father's Day

2007-06-14T09:16:00.000+08:00

各位爸爸，如果這是你父親節的禮物，你會覺得怎麼樣？

If this is your father's day gift, how would you feel?

http://www.winespectatorschool.com/wineschool/

Tasting at Chateau Angelus, Saint-Emilion

2007-05-29T01:24:00.000+08:00

真是希望可以出席啊!!!!!
Really wish I can attend this!!!!!
http://www.cafe-creme.fr/angelus

De Bortoli Muscat Show Liqueur & 8 Year Old Tawny Port

2007-05-15T19:18:00.000+08:00

我個人一向也不是太喜歡喝加烈酒(fortified wine)，特別是波特酒(Port)，主要是不太喜歡她那濃烈的酒精，而且很多時因欠缺酸味而令酒過於空洞及涸喉，加上個別酒廠的出品會帶上我不太欣賞的「古怪」味道 – 如中式涼茶、甘草等，所以我甚少主動會想喝她的。

可是那一夜，跟朋友晚飯後到海邊的小餐廳吃個甜點(巧克力慕絲蛋糕)，配上這兩瓶澳洲的加烈酒，卻是出奇地融和配合，酒中的葡萄乾甜味和蛋糕的幼滑互相提升了大家的表現，就像一對小情人手拖手的談情閒逛，沒驚天地的故事，卻充滿甜蜜。

要特別多謝友人J小姐的安排，令我在一個不愉快生日過後，仍可有一點開心的回憶。
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I personally don’t like Port very much, mainly because of the high alcohol content, as well as the common absence of adequate acidity which make the wine tastes too sweet. Also some winemakers present their wine with some “strange” favour like herbs, medicinal, licorice, etc. which are not attractive stuff to me.

But on the night, two bottles of Australian Port matched with the chocolate mousse cake perfectly. The raisin sweet in wine and the smooth texture of the cake enhanced both performances. The image in my head is just like a pair of young boy and girl in their puppy love, no “Titanic” like great love story but just some honey sweet memory.

Special thanks to Ms J who organised such great event, which relieved my bad feeling recently and allowed me to have a good memory.

As a Salaryman...

2007-05-11T00:15:00.000+08:00

生日當晚，原想跟太太到街外用膳，吃個「豪華餐」或甚麼的，但最後竟在公司工作至十時多才離去，回到家差點已過了生日。由於甚麼也沒預備，只得從雪櫃找了一包餃子，隨便的吃掉便算，難為了太太等了一整晚……

吃時配上一瓶買貴了一倍的Leroy Bourgogne 1998，紫羅蘭及玫瑰花香明顯，加上紅莓及點點的乾果味，簡單卻舒適，算給了自己點點慰藉。

不過難免想，「打工仔」是否一定「身不由己」，唉……

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I celebrate my birthday with work in office this year, and ruined the plan for a nice dinner with my wife. Finally it ended up as a bowl of dumplings in home, what a…

A doubled price Leroy Bourgogne 1998 was drank on the night. Violet and rose were apparent, with raspberry and minor dried fruits on the back, simple but comfortable wine which relieve my mind.

But a thought still present: is there any choice for a salaryman…

Sparkling night @ Red Tavern

2007-04-30T18:42:00.000+08:00

早陣子第一次跟網友聚餐見面，可是最後竟是醉倒碼頭，給老婆大人取笑了個多星期，真失敗……

當晚的食物十分出色，後來才知大廚Willy之前是在Mandarin Pierrot 及 M kitchen工作，怪不得食物極有水準。至於當晚的葡萄酒，實在太多網友已寫過，不想再贅述了。如有興趣，可在Yahoo!blog 中以Red Tavern進行搜尋，大概結果中十居其九都是當晚的記錄了。

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After attending my first wine dinner with fellow blog-mates, which successfully made me a drunken guy at the pier near my home, and turned to be my wife’s favourite joke recently…

The food was excellent, and I just learn from another friend that the chef Willy worked in Mandarin Pierrot and M kitchen before, that was the reason for the outstanding dishes. About the wine, too much have been talked by the blog-mates, if you wish to know (or if you can read Chinese), just type Red Tavern in Yahoo!blog search and I think most of the results are about the night.

Preparation Exercise

2007-04-19T22:57:00.000+08:00

星期五相約網友晚飯小聚，主題是汽泡酒，在家先預習一下。

Cristalino Cava NV, Spain
西班牙的Cava一直都是我喜歡的葡萄酒，因為除價錢相宜外，質素亦往往不俗。此瓶酒香味以柑橘類及少量花香為主，入口十分清爽，帶青檸及檸檬皮，餘韻中等。以$59一瓶來說，她比市面絕大部分的汽泡酒都來得划算。

Montanha Bruto NV, Vinho Espumante de Qualidade, Portugal
一次受不起店員遊說而買的。在鼻子浮現青蘋果及柑橘類，挺令人喜愛。由於是以傳統方法釀造，汽泡頗為細密。可是入口卻比較粗糙，而且汽泡消失速度較預期快，加上餘韻中的苦味偏高，辛辣亦有點過多，不大討好。

Afros Loureiro Branco, Vinho Verde 2005
此瓶並非汽泡酒，而是以Loureiro釀製的白酒。帶柑橘及醋栗的香氣，入口非常清爽，亦有頗明顯的礦物味道，簡單直接，夏日佳品。

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To prepare for the sparkling dinner with bloggers on coming Friday, some exercise was taken at home..

Cristalino Cava NV, Spain
I love Cava quite a lot because of her reasonable price and good quality. This bottle was full of citrus and floral smell in nose, and she was refreshing in mouth. Lime and lemon peel were noted with medium aftertaste. Of value only $59, she is an absolute bargain.

Montanha Bruto NV, Vinho Espumante de Qualidade, Portugal
I always buy wine because of the push from the salesperson. In nose, green apple and citrus were found, quite lovely. As she was made by traditional method, the bubbles were quite small and fine. However, when on palate, she was rather rough and the bubbles disappeared rather fast. Also the bitterness and spice were a bit too high, not too attractive.

Afros Loureiro Branco, Vinho Verde 2005
This is a still white wine made by the grape Loureiro, which is rather new to me. Citrus and gooseberry were noted on nose, she was crispy and refreshing on palate, clear mineral was also shown. Simple and direct wine, a best mate for the hot summer.

BBR Fine Burgundy master class and tasting with Jasper Morris MW @ Grand Hyatt Hotel

2007-04-13T00:59:00.000+08:00

對我這打工仔而言，用上千多元去參與一次品酒活動是十分奢華的行為。但思前想後，最終還是乖乖的付款報名出席是次品酒會，主要是因為有機會聽聽葡萄酒大師主持的活動本身已值回票價，加上是次品酒會的布根地佳釀也不是甚麼便宜貨色，物值頗高，更重要的是我對布根地只有膚淺的認識，希望可透過此活動增加我對此迷人產區的知識。

活動在君悅酒店舉行，環境甚為理想，光線充足，而且房間未算太大，講者不用擴音設備也可以接受；器具方面全用上Riedel的酒杯，頗為講究，而伴酒小食亦甚佳；唯一缺點是會場中某些位置是冷氣系統的出風口，對品酒可能會構成一定影響。

說回講者Jasper Morris(下稱JM)，作為葡萄酒大師及專注布根地的他，相信對布根地的認識不會比任何一位酒評家少。當晚他先自我介紹如何跟葡萄酒及布根地結緣，之後便將八瓶葡萄酒逐一品嚐及講解，充滿資訊之餘亦不失風趣幽默，絕不沉悶，加上純正的英國口音，聽得輕鬆，單是他的講解已抵得上那一千元報名費了。

以下是當晚的試酒筆記，下面說的第一次記錄是隨著JM講解時做的，第二次記錄則是在品酒會講解完畢後(約9:30 – 10:00 pm)做的。

2004 Gevrey Chambertin, Clos Prieur, 1er Cru, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
在陽光不足的年份下生產的酒，品嚐當日還未成形，只有散亂地出現點點咖啡及朱古力，初時入口較平淡。但隨著酒在杯中成熟，漸漸出現更多紅果香氣，第二次入口時更多了點玫瑰花香，在口中除了中高的酸度外，亦有漸增的紅莓味及點點焦糖，比較簡單但餘韻頗長。JM建議2009可開始嚐試她，我想兩年時間亦應可令她成熟。

2003 Pommard, 1er Cru, Comte Armand
一個極度炎熱的年份，令大部分歐洲的葡萄酒均罕有地成熟，甚至過熟。此酒的香氣帶些微黑果及葡萄乾，加上點點的煙燻，木桶味甚明顯，十分「非典型」的布根地。在口中她展現了香濃的紅果，甜味較想像的多，亦較預期的粗糙。之後再試時多了點植物氣息，士多啤梨及櫻桃味亦較易辨認，但依舊的強勁有力。

2002 Nuits St Georges, Les Porets St. Georges, 1er Cru, Domaine Faiveley
紅果、皮革及木桶香氣尚算明顯，同時亦有點泥土氣息，酒精和單寧較意料的為多，但在單寧之中隱隱的感覺到有點點新鮮紅梅及士多啤梨的味道，頗有層次感。JM指Faiveley的造酒風格是較重單寧，他的形容是「單寧包圍著鮮果」，是可陳年存放的跡像，建議2017年前不要打她的主意。

2002 Chambertin, Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel
香氣挺收歛，主要是肉類、土地、樹木及植物，亦有些微煙燻香味；入口時感覺十分出色，酸度及果味極之平衡，成熟的果味慢慢地滲透出來。之後再試時味道更濃郁，而且酒身越來越順滑，亦多了點香料在舌頭後面，絕對是一瓶使人不自覺地越喝越多的佳釀。我個人覺得此酒應淨喝而不用配上食物。

2000 Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux Monts, 1er Cru, Domaine Bertagna
雨水比較多的年份，不過此酒的表現仍十分優雅。紅果、花香及植物等味道均在鼻子及口中出現，可說是互相呼應。再嚐時像熟椰菜的植物氣息消失了而果味及花香則增多了，很討人喜歡的酒。JM指Vosne-Romanée是布根地的最著名傳奇的地段，絕對要嚐試的。

2000 Corton, Clos des Cortons, Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley
令人意外地在濃郁的紅果味之中帶有點點的黑果味，香甜程度直迫Pommard的酒。單寧十分重，亦正是Faiveley的風格。再試時果味仍舊的多，並一步一步的走出來，挺有層次感，但個人不太欣賞。

1990 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Camille Giroud
此酒釀成十多年後，在二零零六年才推出市場。磚紅色的酒身帶頗多沉澱物。香味十分濃烈，以肉類、土地、紅果及朱古力為主，極之豐富，果味更是越放越明顯，像是在誘惑人去快快喝掉她，完全是考驗耐性及定力。入口帶香甜的紅果味及礦物味，單寧仍頗重，但平衡感極佳。相信仍有繼續陳年的能力。JM表示此酒莊用的是十九世紀時流行的傳統釀酒技術，只用上舊木桶，因此酒身只有從葡萄帶來的味道。

1985 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
最後一瓶，卻不是最佳的一瓶。石榴紅色的酒身，香氣有樹葉、咖啡、醬油，果味反而不明顯。入口非常順滑，酸度頗高，有紅果味(紅莓及酸櫻桃)及點點的香料，餘韻長，適合現在飲用。但感覺她已完全成熟，不會再有太大的進步空間。

BBR Grand Cru Champagne
同場加映的香檳，青蘋果及輕輕的柑橘味，入口較甜，個人不太欣賞的香檳，但用來宴客則相信會很受歡迎。

總括來說，該次活動給我感覺蠻不錯，雖然價錢不算特別吸引，但講者的號召力已比一切來得重要，若有相類似的品酒會，我想我仍是會報名參加的。

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To a salaryman like me, participating in this kind of tasting events is too luxurious. However, after thorough consideration, I finally registered to this because in Hong Kong, there are not too many events would be hosted by a Master of Wine. Also, tasting Burgundy high end wines was also something I longed for and I hoped I could have a deeper understanding to the area after the event.

The speaker, Jasper Morris (JM) is a Master of Wine who focused on Burgundy. After some self-introduction, JM shared his views on the wines of the night one by one in great details and full of humour.

The following tasting notes are combination of JM’s comments and my own views when I revisit the wines in the later stage of the night.

2004 Gevrey Chambertin, Clos Prieur, 1er Cru, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
A year with inadequate sunshine and the wine was not formed when tasted. Only some coffee and chocolate were noted at first. She was a bit flat on palate. After some breathing and maturing in the glass, more apparent red fruit with some rose pedals were noted. Medium to high acidity with raspberry and minor taste of caramel, rather straight-forward wine. JM recommended that she could be tasted from 2009 and I agree that two years should make her more lovely.

2003 Pommard, 1er Cru, Comte Armand
An extremely hot year in Europe, making the vine somehow too mature. This lady showed some black fruit and raisin, minor tone of smoke was also found with notable oak barrel nose, rather “atypical” Burgundy style. On palates, the concentrate red fruit with sweet tone was unexpected, and a bit too rough. After some time, some vegetal note showed, strawberry and cherry were also more easily found, but the power was just as strong as when I first contact her.

2002 Nuits St Georges, Les Porets St. Georges, 1er Cru, Domaine Faiveley
Red fruit, leather and oak barrel nose were distinguished easily, with some earthy note. Alcohol and tannin were unexpectedly high, and some fresh raspberry and strawberry were hidden in them. JM said Faiveley’s style was full of tannin, and the wine showed “fresh fruit surrounded by tannin” which was a sign of ability for ageing. He suggested that no one should touch her until 2017.

2002 Chambertin, Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel
Rather inward and lazy at first. Meaty, earthy, forest and vegetal, with slight smoky character. Excellent on palate with balanced acidity and fruitiness, the ripen fruit diffuse into my palate slowly. She became even more concentrated and smooth in the second round, some spice was also noted, an absolutely attractive wine. Personally, I would enjoy her without food.

2000 Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux Monts, 1er Cru, Domaine Bertagna
A rainy year but still with elegant performance. Red fruit, floral and vegetal smell and taste supplemented in nose and on palate. The cabbage note disappeared later while fruitiness and floral smell increased later in the night, very lovely. JM said Vosne-Romanée is the legend area of Burgundy and every wine lover should try wine from the place.

2000 Corton, Clos des Cortons, Grand Cru, Domaine Faiveley
Surprisingly black fruit was noted in the strong red fruit taste, and the wine’s power and intensity was almost the same as Pommard. Heavy tannin was the style of Domaine Faiveley. Her fruitiness kept strong all the night, with layers of expression, but, I didn’t her very much.

1990 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine Camille Giroud
She was first introduced to the market in 2006, more than a decade after the wine was made. Brick red colour with quite a lot of sediments. High intensity in nose, comprised mainly meat, soil, red fruit and chocolate, and fruitiness was even more apparent when the wine matured in the glass. Such performance was like tempting you to drink her as fast as possible, what a challenge on your patience and stability. Sweet red fruit and minerals were noted on palate, balanced with strong tannin, and I trust she could be store for another decade. JM said the winemaker used 19th Century traditional wine making method, which only old barrels were used and thus only the taste from the grape could be found in the wine.

1985 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
Last but not the best of the night. Medium garnet/guava red body with nose of leaves, coffee and soy sauce, fruitiness was not shown clearly. She was extremely smooth on palate, rather acidic. Red fruit (raspberry and sour cherry) with a note of spice. Long aftertaste and suitable for drinking now. I believe she was totally matured and not too much room was left for improvement/ageing.

BBR Grand Cru Champagne
Additional stuff of the night, green apple and citrus, rather sweet on palate which is not too attractive for me. But she should be a perfect PR for banquet.

Overall speaking, I think the event was very nice and successful. Although the price setting was not very appealing, but the value and charm from the speaker was much more important than any other things. If there is similar event again, I will definitely be a participant again.

Casual Dinner @ Lei Garden

2007-04-10T11:14:00.000+08:00

最近忙得要命，現在才可整理一下最近的筆記，還望各位見諒。這次晚飯是每人自携一瓶葡萄酒，沒甚麼特別主題，簡簡單單但卻是舒舒服服。

Esk Valley Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Hawkes Bay New Zealand
香氣及味道都是以菠蘿，桃子和少許蜂蜜為主，中高的酸度，入口後更有點點的辛辣。

Chateau des Tuquets 2003, Bordeaux France
初時像有點點corked，之後又消失了，奇。青草、蘑菇、黑加侖子及青椒的香氣，枝梗感覺頗強，入口比較平淡，但卻有些豆寇的香辣。

De Pennautier Sauvignon Blanc 2005, VDP d’Oc France
石榴及青草，中高酸度，很簡單的一瓶酒。

Chateau de Pressac 2000, St Emilion Bordeaux France
紅果及黑果幾乎混為一體之餘再帶點煙燻。入口單寧及酸度中等，挺滑溜，宜配重味道的菜色。

Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Martinborough New Zealand
在鼻子中的香氣及口中的味道都是以菠蘿、桃子、青草和少許蜂蜜為主，中高的酸度，和第一瓶酒十分近似，但她比較嬌柔，感覺是細水長流的。

Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru, Les Fichots, Domain Folllin-Arbelet, 2002
一位頗為內歛害羞的女士。初時只有植物和土地香氣，漸漸發展出紅果味道。中等單寧，入口十分濃郁的士多啤梨味。很直接的布根地一級田葡萄酒，很適合日常飲用。

Corte Rugolin “Monte Danieli” Amarone Classico 1998, Italy
葡萄乾、黑果、土地、朱古力、礦物、話梅及山楂香氣，入口帶輕輕的酸甜，反而應有的苦味卻不見，應仍有發展及成熟的空間。

Metala Shiraz Cabernet 1997, Langhorne Creek, Australia
黑莓、煙燻、李子、葡萄乾，十分幼滑及充滿牛油香，入口更有點陳皮味道，是該喝的酒了。

Niepoort White Port
酒精明顯，帶白朱古力、糖醬、焦糖、香料辛辣，乾果等味道。

Beringer Nightingale 1998, Botrytised Napa Valley, USA
葡萄乾、糖醬及少許貴族霉香，入口酸度中等，香料辛辣比較明顯。如酸度可再高一點便是完美的甜酒了。

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Here are some late coming tasting notes for this simple but not naïve dinner.

Esk Valley Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Hawkes Bay New Zealand
Pineapple, peach and minor honey tone on both nose and palate, with medium high acidity and some spice on back palate. Simple starter.

Chateau des Tuquets 2003, Bordeaux France
She seemed to be a bit corked at first but back to normal later. Grassy, mushroom, blackcurrant and green pepper in nose, rather flat on palate. Some nutmeg was also notes when drank.

De Pennautier Sauvignon Blanc 2005, VDP d’Oc France
Guava, grassy and medium high acidity simple wine.

Chateau de Pressac 2000, St Emilion Bordeaux France
A combination of black/red fruit and smoky in nose, quite smooth when in mouth. Medium tannin and acidity, she was a natural-born partner for heavy food.

Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Martinborough New Zealand
Pineapple, peach, minor honey and grassy on both nose and palate, with medium high acidity. Quite similar to the first one but she was more elegant.

Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru, Les Fichots, Domain Folllin-Arbelet, 2002
She was rather shy at first. Vegetal and earthy were first noted, and red fruit was shown after a while. Medium tannin and quite strong strawberry/red fruit were found on palate. A straight-forward 1er Cru, very suitable for daily drinking.

Corte Rugolin “Monte Danieli” Amarone Classico 1998, Italy
Raisin, black fruit, earthy, chocolate, dried berry and date, mineral were noted on nose, attractive. A hint of sweetness was found on palate but the natural bitterness could not be found. Still plenty room for improvement.

Metala Shiraz Cabernet 1997, Langhorne Creek, Australia
Blackberry, plum, raisin and smoke on nose, she was also very creamy and buttery. A hint of preserved tangerine peel was also shown on palate. She was ready to be and should be drunk now.

Niepoort White Port
Alcoholic, some white chocolate, caramel and syrup was noted. Spiciness and dried fruit were also noted in mouth.

Beringer Nightingale 1998, Botrytised Napa Valley, USA
Raisin, syrup, and minor botrytis favour were noted. Med acidity, rather spicy on palate. If she was with higher acidity, she would be a perfect casual drinking desert wine.

Triple White

2007-03-15T01:43:00.000+08:00

在香港白葡萄酒的受歡迎程度遠不及紅葡萄酒，以致很多時一般大眾都會覺得「紅酒」等於「葡萄酒」。歸根究底，白酒不太受落的主要原因是她們一般酸度較高，酒精度偏低，加上以往劣質產品為數不少，因而令不少人卻步。但我個人覺得，白酒其實是較紅酒更適合初嚐葡萄酒的朋友作為入門選擇，因為在白酒中有機會出現的香氣及味道是較為我們(特別是東方人)熟悉，對於訓練品酒技巧時會相對更容易及更有成功感。例如當說起一瓶酒有蘋果、菠蘿及桃子的味道，相信很多人都會猜到大概是怎麼樣；但當形容黑莓、甘草及雪茄盒時，因為東方人較少接觸這些東西，所以會比較難掌握。

若以銷售量計算，白酒的數字遠較紅酒為少。但隨著品酒人士的水平提昇，配合起很多酒商的市場策略，一些白酒如長相思(Sauvignon Blanc)或汽泡酒等已漸為市場受落。另一方面，正因銷量一般，酒商們對白酒的訂價會比較審慎，所以市場上有不少傑出白酒的價錢是十分合理的。

最近嚐過幾瓶白酒，在此與大家分享一下。

Carmen Wine Maker's Reserve Chardonnay 2001, Chile
酒身呈黃帶金色，香氣初時稍薄，有檸檬、熱帶水果、牛油、雲尼拿及椰油等木桶類香氣。入口酒體頗豐滿順滑，中等酸度內帶熱情果及西柚味，餘韻中等，不過不失的一瓶莎當妮。

Taylors Jaraman Riesling 2002, Australia
淡黃帶點點青綠的酒身，最初只有淡淡的金屬、青草及嫩芽香氣，感覺青翠嫩綠卻冷冷的；之後酒溫開始回升，香氣亦與之並增，浮現出花蕾、白花、青蘋果、柑橘、桃子等，香氣的豐盛令人覺得像從乍暖還寒的初春走到炎炎盛夏。入口果味濃郁，而且有著明顯的香料辛辣，可惜酸度稍稍略低，但以港幣二百元的一瓶酒來說，她的物值仍是十分的高。

Hardy's Nottage Hill Chardonnay Brut (Sparkling) 2004, Australia
很普通的新世界汽泡酒，柑橘類香氣中有點點的烤吐司和酵母，汽泡不算太大卻疏落，在口中則多了的莎當妮的甘苦，很一般的「派對酒」。

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The popularity of white wine in Hong Kong is far behind red wine, which makes lots of people possess a misunderstanding of red wine equals wine. The major reasons for this include the high in acidity but low in alcohol level of the whites which may not be welcomed by Chinese, as well as the bad quality products previously in market projecting a negative image of white wines in people’s mind. However, I personally think whites are much better starting place for the beginners. It is because the aroma and taste that may appear in whites are easier to be recognized by us (oriental people); this can help enhancing the tasting techniques and confidence of wine lovers. For example, when I describe apple, pineapple and peach, I think most of the people can associate the tastes with those in their mind; but when I say blackberry, licorice and cigar box, which are not familiar with most oriental people, it will create difficulties in understanding the wine.

The sales volume of whites in Hong Kong is much less than reds. Nevertheless, with the enhancement of the level of wine lover as well as the change of marketing strategies of wine merchants, some white wines like Sauvignon Blanc or sparkling wines are gradually accepted by the market. On the other hand, as the sales is just so-so, the merchants are more prudent when considering the prices of the whites, hence quite a number of them are selling at reasonable prices in Hong Kong.

The following are tasting notes of 3 bottles of white I recent have for sharing with you.

Carmen Wine Maker's Reserve Chardonnay 2001, Chile
The golden-yellow lady showed some lemon, tropical fruit, butter, vanilla and coconut aromas. On palate, with the smooth and medium-full body, the taste of passion fruit and grapefruit with medium acidity were detected. Aftertaste was just medium, and this is then a typical “medium” Chardonnay.

Taylors Jaraman Riesling 2002, Australia
Pale yellow with some hint of green, the wine initially showed steel, grass and buds on nose, rather cold and green. As the temperature of wine increase, the fragrance also enhanced. Blossoms, white flower, green apple, citrus and peach were noted; she just let me have an impression of moving from cool spring to the hot summer. Fruitiness was more than expected in mouth, with very clear and heavy spicy taste. One weakness of her was the medium acidity which was a bit too low. Having considered she was just about HK$200, I would say she was definitely a worth to try.

Hardy's Nottage Hill Chardonnay Brut (Sparkling) 2004, Australia
A simple new world sparkling wine with citrus, toasts and yeast favors. The bubbles were not big but just a bit too few, and the bitterness of Chardonnay was also noted on palate. She was absolutely a “Party Wine”.

Revised Duty on Alcoholic Beverages in Hong Kong

2007-02-28T12:43:00.000+08:00

財政司司長在今天的預算案演辭中說:

含酒精飲品應課稅品稅

我相信調低酒稅會有助本地餐飲、旅遊以至批發零售酒類飲品行業的發展，也令市民大眾受惠。我建議由即時開始，把啤酒及其他酒精濃度不多於百分之三十的酒類飲品稅率，由現時的百分之四十，調低至百分之二十。另外，葡萄酒稅率則由現時百分之八十，調低至百分之四十。這建議會令政府每年的收入減少約3億5,000萬元。

在預算案諮詢期間，有意見認為預算案應更具前瞻性，例如取消酒稅，以增加經濟活動和促進就業，並推動香港發展成為區內酒類飲品的展銷、貿易及物流中心。如果這項具創意的建議獲社會廣泛支持，我願意積極考慮。

(資料來源: http://www.budget.gov.hk/2007/chi/speech.htm)
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In the Budget Speech today, the Financial Secretary said:

Duty on Alcoholic Beverages

I believe that reducing the duty on alcoholic beverages will help promote the development of our catering industry, tourism and wholesale and retail alcoholic beverage trade, thereby benefiting the community at large. I propose that the duty rate on beer and other types of liquor containing not more than 30 per cent of alcohol be reduced from the current 40 per cent to 20 per cent, and that on wine from the current 80 per cent to 40 per cent. These proposals take immediate effect, and will cost the Government about $350 million a year.

During the Budget consultation period, some people suggested that the Budget should be more visionary: for instance, the duty on alcoholic beverages should be abolished to boost economic activities, increase employment and promote the development of Hong Kong as the region's wine exhibition, trading and logistics centre. I am willing to consider this innovative idea further if it enjoys broad community support.

(Source: http://www.budget.gov.hk/2007/eng/speech.htm)

Oz and James's Big Wine Adventure

2007-02-25T16:35:00.000+08:00

從網上知道英國廣播公司(BBC)拍攝了一輯由著名葡萄酒評論家Oz Clarke與一位對葡萄酒沒甚麼認識的汽車及體育節目主持James May暢遊法國多個葡萄酒產區的節目，經多番搜尋終於訂到手。

節目其實類似現時甚為流行的「真人秀」(Reality Show)，Oz的目標是要把「葡萄酒盲」James教導成為一名對葡萄酒有基本概念的人，但James是一位十分有主見且不是熱衷於葡萄酒的人，於是過程便順理成章的充滿笑話，娛樂性挺豐富。當中有些片段的確令人忍不住笑出來，例如：

1. Oz細心講解形容葡萄酒的用語時，叫James去嗅一嗅牛糞！
2. James在Chateau Pichon-Lalande以燒烤肉腸去形容他們的出品(但莊主夫人竟然同意)！
3. Oz在教皇區(Chatrauneuf-du-Pape)嘗試十三種法定許可的葡萄，只能猜中三種！
4. James表示只用約8英鎊的香檳比Krug的Clos du Mesnil好喝！

撇開那些開玩笑的元素，整輯節目還是很有可觀性。通過六集節目，觀眾對葡萄酒的釀造過程、法國不同地區的「風土條件」(Terroir)、品評酒的方法等等都有頗清楚的介紹。

如你希望可以簡單地對認識葡萄酒有初步的認識，此輯節目是一個不錯的選擇。

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After a long period of searching, I finally have bought this series successfully. This series of TV programme was produced by BBC, which was about a trip in France by Oz Clarke, a famous wine authority, and James May, a Sports and Car programme host who know nothing about wine.

The series is something like “Reality Show”, which Oz’s task was to educate James on basic wine knowledge. However, the problem was that James was not that enthusiastic with wine, and thus lots of jokes were captured, for example:

1. Oz asked James to smell bull shit for describing wine!
2. James used barbecue sausage to describe Chateau Pichon-Lalande’s wine (but the host shared his view)!
3. Oz blind tasted all 13 allowed grapes of Chatrauneuf-du-Pape and got 3 correct only!
4. James reckoned that the inexpensive Champagne (about 8 GBP) was better than Krug’s Clos du Mesnil!

Other than the jokes, this TV series is still worth watching as it explained some important wine facts clearly, such as wine-making processes, knowledge on terroir, wine tasting procedures, etc.

If you wish to watch something simple on wine, this programme may suit your expectation.

Le Nez Du Vin and My Son

2007-02-21T22:52:00.000+08:00

農曆新年數天假期，沒有外遊，只是留在家中享天倫之樂。一天，兒子突然拿起我的水松木酒塞往鼻子嗅。我忽發奇想，不若訓練一下他的嗅覺，於是便拿了整套「酒鼻子」 (Le Nez Du Vin) 跟他玩玩看，可惜最後他還是覺得把瓶子當積木來玩會比較有趣。

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I spent the holidays of Chinese New Year all in home with my wife and son. One day, my boy took my corks and smelt them, I thought that may be a chance to train up his nose, so I took out the set of “Le Nez Du Vin” and play with him. However, he finally considered that the bottles are blocks more than anything.

BBR Burgundy Tasting on 7 Feb 2007

2007-02-13T01:40:00.000+08:00

數日前收到BBR寄來的電郵，介紹在2月7日晚上舉行的試酒會。今次的試酒會竟然要收費，但考慮到試的都是布根地佳釀，加上有該公司的葡萄酒部董事Alun Griffiths MW出席，當上一課也該值得，而且入場費也可以用作扣除買酒的費用，最後還是乖乖付款報名了。

當日下午放了半天假，跟很久沒有拍過拖的太太到Cova吃了個下午茶自助餐，飽得要命，但真是值得一試的，強烈推薦各位一試。六時半施施然的走到BBR的店舖，等了又等，客人越來越多，但遲遲未見Mr Griffiths，結果他表示因的士司機迷了路而遲到云云，可憐的我卻是等了差不多等了四十五分鐘才正式開始。以下是我對6支葡萄酒的印象：

2003 Vougeot Blanc, Les Cras, 1er Cru, Domaine Bertagna
充滿蜂蜜、菠蘿及李子的香氣，入口有可口的酸度，帶菠蘿的甜酸，慢慢出現了滿口火石和礦物的味道，餘韻帶莎當妮應有的甘。頗不俗。

2003 Pommard, Grands Epenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Hubert de Montille
紫紅色的年青葡萄酒，帶有櫻桃、紅莓、少許雲尼拿之中再有點點的黑果味，之後再浮現出香草類的香氣。入口感覺十分圓潤，中低度的酸味，配合櫻桃及紅莓的味道，放久了入口不太順滑。個人覺得這瓶酒太強太有力，優雅欠奉。話雖玻瑪的酒很多時也是豐厚有力的，但她給我的感覺，說得誇張點刻薄點，有點像加州來的黑皮諾……

2001 Volnay, Les Fremiets, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Boillot
寶石紅色酒身帶石榴邊，沉澱物較想像的多。香味以紅果(櫻桃及紅莓)加上植物氣息為主，十分典型的黑皮諾。在口中展現出濃濃的櫻桃及士多啤莉味之餘，亦有點點香料的辛辣。撇開價錢這因素，我相信她可作為布根地葡萄酒的教材。

2000 Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine Jacques Cacheux et Fils
酒身呈紅寶石的鮮艷，充滿紅果(櫻桃及紅莓)和植物(椰菜)的氣息，加上點點的泥土，挺複雜。入口十分滑溜，帶紅果及香料味，酒精比預期的明顯，但仍是一瓶平衡且可口的葡萄酒。

1991 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
中度的磚紅色，初時比較緊閉收歛，漸漸散發出植物、皮革、泥土及煙燻的氣息，紅果味不太明顯。在口中有極怡人的酸度，紅莓味也較明顯，意外地有點點的橡木味。這是我整晚覺得最適合現時飲用的酒，可惜當我想買時已售罄……

1985 Latricières Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
淺磚紅色之中帶點棕色，挺多沉澱物。氣息以動物(野味)、皮革、植物及濕葉為主，加上少許櫻桃、泥土和醬油，很典型成熟的布根地。入口極順滑，酸度高，櫻桃及紅莓味在口中很清晰，之後仍繼續有十分澎湃的果味，好酒。

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This was not a free tasting as BBR usually held, but I still joined it because: (1) it was a Burgundy night, (2) the Wine Director of BBR Mr Alun Griffiths MW would present, and (3) the admission fee can be used for reduction of the wine bought on the night.

After a heavy but lovely tea buffet with my wife in Cova, I went the BBR’s shop sharp at 6:30pm, but I almost turned into a fossil because Mr Griffiths was late for about 45 minutes. Anyway, it was a nice evening. My comments on the wines are as follows:

2003 Vougeot Blanc, Les Cras, 1er Cru, Domaine Bertagna
Full of honey, pineapple and peach in nose. On palate, the refreshing acidity brought by the sweet and sour of pineapple was really lovely. Flint and mineral were also noted later. Aftertaste showed the bitterness of Chardonnay. A nice wine.

2003 Pommard, Grands Epenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Hubert de Montille
A young wine of purple-ruby colour, with cherry, raspberry, vanilla and unexpected hint of black fruit, herbs were also noted later. She gave me a round feeling in mouth, with just low-medium acidity and cherry and raspberry taste, not too smooth after a while. I personally think that she is too strong too powerful and lack of elegance. It’s true that wine from Pommard are usually strong, but she looks like something from Napa.

2001 Volnay, Les Fremiets, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Boillot
Ruby colour with pink rim, the sediments are more than I expected. Red fruit (cherry and raspberry) and vegetal note dominated the nose, rather typical Pinot Noir. Cherry and strawberry were noted on palate, with some spice. If price is not the consideration element, I think she would be a nice teaching material for lectures on Burgundy wine.

2000 Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine Jacques Cacheux et Fils
Charming ruby colour with lots of red fruit (cherry and raspberry) and vegetal (cabbage) on nose, hint of earthy. Rather complicated wine. Very smooth on palate, with red fruit and spice, and alcohol is a bit more apparent than I expected. Still, she was a nice and balanced wine. Echézeaux is always Echézeaux.

1991 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
Medium brick red in appearance, she was a bit closed at first. Vegetal, leather, earthy and smoky nose came out slowly, and the red fruit was not too significant. Acidity was very nice on palate, and the taste of raspberry could be noted easily. Oak was also found, strange. I think among the bottles of the night, this one was the most suitable wine for immediate consumption, but sold out when I wanted to buy…

1985 Latricières Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
Pale brick red with some hint of garnet, lots of sediments when poured into glass. On nose, animals, leather, vegetal and wet leaves dominated, accompanied by cherry, earthy and soy sauce, typical matured Burgundy red. Extremely smooth on palate with high acidity, cherry and raspberry were clearly noted, fruitiness continued for a long time, good wine.

Penfolds Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2004

2007-02-09T00:42:00.000+08:00

非常深的紫紅色，幾乎可用近黑去形容她。一倒進杯便是黑莓、李子、雲尼拿、椰油、少許甘草，在鼻子完全是甜甜的。入口單寧及酒精都十分強勁，黑莓及黑加侖子十分明顯，餘韻並不短。

此類大量生產的新世界葡萄酒，我個人覺得最適合一大夥人往燒烤時喝，簡單易明，將切拉子的特性完全表現出來，不過多口總有點膩的感覺。

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Very deep purple-ruby colour, almost like black. Blackberry, plum, vanilla and coconut are shown in the glass, with hint of liquorices, rather sweet in nose. Very powerful tannin and alcohol on palate, with clear black fruit (blackberry and blackcurrant), and the aftertaste is not short.

I personally think that this kind of New World mass production suits barbecue with a large group friends, simple and showing all characters of Shiraz, nice party wine. But just a bit too much if I have to drink more than a glass…

Celebration!!! (Part 2)

2007-01-30T00:52:00.000+08:00

前陣子提過的「品醇客」攝影比賽，結果已經公佈，詳情請瀏覽以下網頁：
http://www.decanter.com/news/107439.html

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The result of photo competition of “Decanter” magazine I mentioned earlier has been announced. Please visit the following webpage for details:
http://www.decanter.com/news/107439.html

Louis Latour Macon-Lugny Les Genievres, AC Macon-Villages, 2003

2007-01-20T02:32:00.000+08:00

大廠出品的布根地白酒，將莎當尼應有的特性都表現出來。一倒進杯是濃烈的牛油及雲尼拿香氣，之後是柑橘、青蘋果及甜栗米的味道。入口酸度甚高，柑橘味道明顯，加上點點的香料辛辣，餘韻的苦澀味稍多。

大廠出品，多數不會令你有驚喜，但作為日常餐酒則合格有餘了。

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Burgundy white from large company which showed all characteristics of Chardonnay. Buttery and vanilla were first noted when she was poured into the glass, followed by citrus, green apple and some sweet corn. Medium-high acidity on palate with clear citrus taste and little spicy. Bitterness was a bit too much in aftertaste.

Products of large company will never surprise you. But she is definitely a good companion for daily meals.

Leeuwin Estate Siblings 2005

2007-01-14T21:43:00.000+08:00

十分不錯的一瓶白酒。柑橘、菠蘿、青蘋果和蜂蜜，及後出現點點的青草氣息，完全將葡萄(長相思(Sauvignon Blanc)與榭密雍(Semillon))的特性發揮出來。入口酸度很高，帶點香料及辛辣，絕對是佐膳良伴。

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A very good white. Citrus, pineapple, green apple and honey nose, some grassy appear later. The winemaker has successfully shown the characteristics of the grape (Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon). Highly acidic on palate, with some spice, exciting, an absolute companion to dinner.

Celebration!!!

2007-01-05T00:40:00.000+08:00

早前英文版的「品醇客」舉辦了一次攝影比賽，題目是「慶祝(Celebration)」。

於是一天趁小孩子睡了的時候，拍下了此造型照，但之後卻忘了送交參賽，真是有可惜啊！冠軍的獎可是「佳能」的數碼單鏡相機啊！

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The “Decanter” magazine previously held a photo competition, and the topic was “Celebration”.

So, one day, I took this photo when the boy was sleeping, but I forgot to send the photo for the competition, what a waste! The prize for winner was a Canon digital camera!

Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon

2006-12-12T23:59:00.000+08:00

上星期參加好友的婚宴，當晚喝的是由拉斐堡在智利投資的酒莊「華詩歌」(忘記了年份!)。這類場合一般的葡萄酒都不用有甚麼期望，是次亦不例外，黑加侖子、點點黑莓果醬，配上雲尼拿、椰油及肉桂組合而成的橡木味，入口甜甜的，勝在簡單易明。

我想說的不是評價這葡萄酒的質素，而是說說喝酒到底是「追求甚麼」。大家不妨想想，我下次再說自己的愚見。

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Last week, I attended my friends’ wedding banquet, and the wine served was “Los Vascos” which was invested by Chateau Lafite in Chile. I have no expectation for wine in this kind of events, and this case was not an exception. Combination of blackcurrant, blackberry jam, vanilla, coconut and cinnamon, rather sweet on palate, but very simple and esay.

What I want to say is not the quality of the wine, I wish to talk about the expectations when we drink. Perhaps you can think about this question first, and I will talk my view next time.

Faustino VII Rioja DOC 2004, Spain and Inniskillin Pinot Noir 2000, Canada

2006-11-30T13:00:00.000+08:00

相對而言，西班牙和加拿大的葡萄酒都是我甚少嘗試的，這天心血來潮一口氣開了兩瓶來喝，風格十分不同。

Faustino VII Rioja DOC 2004

十分年輕，酒身呈深紫色，香味以紅果、土地及橡木為主。入口頗為粗糙，木味有點過濃。放下大半天再喝卻柔順了不少，果味反而變得明顯，奇！可是那股泥土氣息，我個人真的不太懂得欣賞。

Inniskillin Pinot Noir 2000

加拿大的冰酒喝過不少，但該國的黑皮諾卻是第一次品嚐。開瓶時並沒太多香氣，十五分鐘後出現頗強烈的植物氣息(椰菜)，紅果不太明顯，配上點點枯木濕葉味，我……受不了。

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Not too many chance for me to taste wine from Spain and Canada, and these two were opened at the same time in an “accidental” occasion.

Faustino VII Rioja DOC 2004

Very young wine, with deep purple colour. Red fruit, earth and oak were reflected in nose while excessive woodiness was detected on palate, very rough. After half day rest, her fruitiness unexpectedly increased. But personally I really don’t know how to appreciate the soil taste.

Inniskillin Pinot Noir 2000

The ice wine from Canada is always one of my favourites, but the Pinot Noir would never be. Not too much was noted when opened, and after 15 minutes, strong vegetal (cabbage) appeared, but red fruit was not that apparent. Combined with the damp wood and wet leaves, she will never be my love.

146th Hospices de Beaune Wine Sale

2006-11-15T02:02:00.000+08:00

一年一度的布根地布蒙醫院拍賣會將一如以往在十一月十九日舉行。今年是第二年由「佳士得拍賣行」主持公開競投，不只限於布根地酒商才可參與。

從「佳士得」的網站找到有關是次拍賣的資料，共有110個指拍賣的單元，每個競投單元由一桶至十多桶原酒組成。2006年是一個不俗的年分，可惜不能與2005年相提並論。在閱畢拍賣目錄後原想寫一寫我的個人喜好，不過最近工作實在太累了，有精神才寫吧！

建議大家可瀏覽「佳士得」有關是次拍賣會的網頁：http://www.christies.com/promos/nov06/5454/overview.asp

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The annual Hospices de Beaune Wine Sale will be conducted on 19 November 2006 as usual. This is the 2nd time that Christie’s Auction House responsible for conducting the event, which will be open to all but not only to wine merchants in Burgundy or France.

Read from Christie’s website about the details of the auction, which comprises 110 Tranches, and each Tranche is make up of 1 to 10 barrels of wine. 2006 is a good year for Burgundy, but cannot compare with the extraordinary 2005. After reading the webpages, I originally want to write something about my favourites. But due to my recent heavy workload, I am sorry that this cannot come true.

I strongly suggest you visit Christie’s Website: http://www.christies.com/promos/nov06/5454/overview.asp

Pre-Auction Tasting of the 2006 Nedbank Cape Winemaker Guild Auction of Rare Cape Wines

2006-11-09T01:58:00.000+08:00

南非的「開普敦釀酒師公會」(暫譯，下稱公會)是一個由南非頂尖釀酒師組成的協會，每年十月公會都會舉行慈善拍賣。本年十月三日他們在深水灣徑的「皇冠酒窖」(暫譯，下稱酒窖)進行了一次拍賣前的試酒會。

公會及拍賣會背景

公會早於一九八二年成立，現時有37位會員，新會員必須由現有會員推薦及投票才可加入公會，能成為會員是對釀酒師的技術及能力的肯定。

拍賣會在一九八五年第一次舉行，目的是推廣公會會員的葡萄酒。一九九九年，公會與贊助活動的南非銀行Nedbank聯合成立了一發展基金，將拍賣得到的收益撥用了社區發展及幫助弱勢社群。

拍賣的葡萄酒全都是經公會會員嚴格篩選，以蒙瓶試飲的方式，將品質最好的葡萄酒挑選為拍賣會上的珍品。

試酒會場地及安排

皇冠酒窖位於壽臣山深水灣徑，是由二次大戰時遺下的防空洞及軍火庫改建而成。負責人(一名老外)曾跟筆者笑說由於該處結構穩固，大戰幾近沒有人員傷亡，所以該處「風水」極佳云云。

對當晚試酒會的安排，個人覺得有兩點(一褒一貶)值得說說。我本以為各酒莊的釀酒師會出席該次活動，介紹他們的酒、釀酒理念、或對行業前景的觀點，但令人失望的是該晚是「酒到人不到」。不過值得一讚的是由於酒窖每款可供試飲的酒均收到兩瓶，因此工作人員將其中一瓶在試酒會前一星期已開瓶，目的是顯示出有關葡萄酒的「陳年潛質」，估計一星期的發展跟在瓶中熟成10至15年相似。

試酒

說完了沉悶的背景資料，現在講講當晚的酒吧。當晚我試了大約七十瓶酒，整體表現甚為統一，新酒大致上都是以果味(黑果及紅果)為主，而已發展的酒則有香草，植物(木)，動物等氣息。以下是我印象較深的十數瓶，但並非筆者覺得極優質的推介(排列是跟拍賣次序)。

Hartenberg Gravel Hill Shiraz 2003
很強的一瓶酒，充滿黑莓、梅子、胡椒、香料及煙燻。熟成後出現皮革、肉類及果醬味道，該是一瓶有潛質的葡萄酒。

Rudera Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest Auction Reserve 2006 (375ml)
十分出色的甜酒，富蜂蜜、葡萄、蜜蠟及花香，極之易入口。在2005年的拍賣會中，她的成交價是全場最高：4,000南非鍰一箱六瓶(南非鍰跟港幣大約是一對一)。不過我對此高價則不太認同。

Cordoba Auction Reserve 2003
封閉的酒，有點點的黑加侖子味，熟成後出現燒焦的口味。意想不到地她由品麗(Cabernet Franc)珠釀成的！我個人認為不太值得儲藏。

Jordan Chardonnay Reserve 2005
牛油、蜂巢、蜜蠟、菠蘿、桃子及點點的乾果，非常複雜及新世界的感覺。對喜愛經橡木處理莎當妮(Chardonnay)的人士，她絕對是一個值得一嘗的選擇。

Neil Ellis Auction Reserve Syrah 2003
當晚最典型的酒 – 黑果混合紅果，配上香草及土地氣息，入口有果實的甜美，餘韻悠長，是一瓶有潛質的好酒。

Lourensford Limited Release 2004
另一瓶值得一提的葡萄酒 – 黑加侖子及黑莓，加上點點的橡木及胡椒。濕樹葉、焦油和動物氣息出現在熟成的酒中。感覺上很波爾多，但原來卻是由赤霞珠、切拉子及梅鹿釀成的。

Hartenberg Dry Weisser Riesling-Auction Reserve 2005
這是我全晚最喜歡的酒。非常的優雅，配合青蘋果，蜂蜜及花香，入口十分順滑，更帶有點點的貴族霉和柑橘味。可惜我相信她的陳年潛質極有限，就像澳洲格拉爾谷(Clare Valley)的薏絲琳。

Nitida Auction Selection Shiraz 2004
十分隆河區的葡萄酒，充滿著莓子，胡椒，香料等，加上天然的果甜，喝得舒暢！香草，青草及甘草(全是草？！)則在熟成後的酒出現。

Villiera Chardonnay Brut Blanc de Blanc 2003
全場唯一的汽泡酒。第一次試飲時香氣非常淡薄，只有點點的柑橘，但氣泡則非常幼細，入口香滑。當晚再試時開放了不少，十分優雅，但她的表現令我懷疑她是否擁有如其他年分香檳的陳年潛質。

Bouchard Finlayson Auction Reserve Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2005
櫻桃，莓子及橡木，單寧頗強，相信有陳年的潛質。熟成後出現乾果及蜂蜜味道，令我覺得最有趣是她的紅棗味。

Kaapzicht Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003
非常強壯的酒，濃郁的黑果，櫻桃及點點青草味，陳年後有肉類及乾莓的味道，柏加該給她不俗的分數。同廠另有一瓶Pinotage，可惜已被喝清，試不到！

Boplaas Vintage Reserve Port 2004
在鼻中第一感覺是酒精極強，之後出現黑果，果醬，香料，及點點的森林感覺。在熟成的酒中竟沒大改變，難道有那麼強的潛質嗎？

Boschkloof Auction Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2004
澳洲有一酒莊 d’Arenberg 有類似的產物 (Laughing Magpie，售價約港幣$210)。充滿莓子，胡椒及香料，入口滑，Viognier 令她的複雜性增強不少。不過在有澳洲代替品的前題下，是否值得競投嘛……

Jordan Sophia 2004
如我一定要參與競投，她就是我的對象。在鼻中及口中均出現豐富的黑加侖子配合雜莓，酒精明顯，但在口中平衡感十分好，餘韻長。熟成後有點點的皮革，但仍十分年青，相信陳年潛質十分優厚。

試後感

對於這類拍賣會，我相信是收集市面少見的葡萄酒最有效的方法，同時亦是顯露閣下的派頭的好方法。你可想想，當別人去到府上作客，你開瓶酒，慢慢道出酒的來歷，背後的故事等等，多酷！！！至於酒的品嚐價值則見人見智了。另外，較划算的參與拍賣會的方式，我想大概是集合幾位朋友一起競投，然後運回香港，那便「既有面，又不用太多錢」！

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The Cape Winemaker Guild (CWG) of South Africa, which is an organization of South African top wine producers, held a Pre-Auction Tasting at the Crown Wine Cellar in Hong Kong on 3 October 2006.

Background of the Auction

The CWG was established in 1982 by eight independent winemakers. The number of members grew to 37 at present. To become a member, a winemaker has to be invited to join the Guild. Invitation to join the CWG follows a process of nomination (a potential member has to be nominated by an existing member) and voting at the Guild’s annual general meeting. The Guild is about winemakers, about their abilities, philosophies and achievements and their ongoing dedication to the production of quality wines.

As a means of promoting their wines, the members of the Guild held their first public Auction in 1985. In 1999, together with its Auction sponsor Nedbank, the CWG established the Nedbank CWG Development Trust. Assisting with the social, educational and training needs of those living in the wine growing regions of South Africa, the Trust renders a worthwhile contribution towards the development and empowerment of previously disadvantaged communities.

Auction wines undergo rigorous screening by the members of the Guild at a blind tasting, where the identity of wines being tasted is not revealed. Wines are selected for their technical excellence, premium quality and maturation potential.

Tasting Venue and Arrangement

Crown Wine Cellars (the Cellars) is located in Shouson Hill, boasts 6 underground cellars, and a private members clubhouse comprised of 2 underground bunkers and a newly constructed conservatory. The original structures were constructed almost 70 years ago by the British Military to serve as an ammunition and weapons storage depot in preparation for World War II.

On the night, everyone arrived the Cellars can participate in the tasting session, no matter you have pre-registered or not. Nobody checked your identity indeed! Two arrangements of the night may worth mentioning - one disappointing and one praise-worthy. When I reached the venue, I was a bit disappointed as all the wines available were just opened and put on the table, whereas I originally expected that the winemakers would present in the function to share their ideas on their own wine and their vision on the industry. The good thing was that there were two bottles of each available wine in the room, and the staff of the Cellars had opened one bottle a week ago while uncorked the other bottle just before the event. This arrangement helped the wines to show “some” of their ageing potentials and possible development as oxidation had taken place for a week, which resembled placing them in cellars for 10 – 15 years (rough estimation). This made assessment on them become easier.

The Wines

Too much on the boring facts, let’s talk about the wines.

Generally speaking, most of the wines I tasted in the night (about 70 bottles! My tongue and lips lost feeling for some moments!) were quite consistent. Black and / or red fruit characters dominated in the “young” ones while development to herbs, wood, animals and toast were observed in the “old” wines. The following are wines that gave me deeper impression than others, but they were not necessarily the better ones. (The wines listed below were in order of auction sequence.)

Hartenberg Gravel Hill Shiraz 2003
A very strong wine with nice blackberry, plum, pepper, spice and little smokiness. Leather, meat and jam tasted were noted in old ones. She should develop well in bottles.

Rudera Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest Auction Reserve 2006 (375ml)
Good quality dessert wine with honey, grapes, wax and floral note in my nose. She was extremely easy to drink. In 2005 Auction, she received the highest bid at R$4,000 per case of 6 half-bottles (South African Rand is about 1:1 to Hong Kong dollars) but I doubted whether she worth this price.

Cordoba Auction Reserve 2003
Closed with hint of blackcurrant, some burnt taste was noted in old. Unexpectedly she was dominated by Cabernet Franc! Not too worth for cellaring, I personally think.

Jordan Chardonnay Reserve 2005
Butter, honeycomb, wax, pineapple, peach and a little hint of dried fruit, a very complex and New World style Chardonnay. You would like her if you love Chardonnay with heavy oak treatment.

Neil Ellis Auction Reserve Syrah 2003
A typical wine of the night – black and red fruit with herbs and earthy taste. Very sweet on palate. Finish was long and lovely. Nice wine with good ageing potential.

Lourensford Limited Release 2004
Another typical wine worth tasting and mentioning – black fruit (blackcurrant and berry) with some woody and peppery taste. Wet leaves, tar and animal nose were noted in the old one. Quite Bordeaux style but actually she had blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot.

Hartenberg Dry Weisser Riesling-Auction Reserve 2005
This is the most impressive wine to me in the night. Very elegant, with green fruit, honey, floral nose. Smooth and botrytised citrus taste on palate. But not too much ageing potential, just like some Riesling in Clare Valley of Australia.

Nitida Auction Selection Shiraz 2004
She was rather Rhone style (the official tasting note had the same thing mentioned). Berry, pepper and spice were noted and natural sweetness on palate, pleasant! Herbs, grass and liquorices were found in developed wine.

Villiera Chardonnay Brut Blanc de Blanc 2003
The only sparkling wine in the Auction. When first tried, the nose was very weak, might be closed. Only citrus peels could be detected, but bubbles were very fine and extremely smooth in mouth. When I re-visited her later in the night, she was much more opened with elegancy. However, I wonder whether she had any ageing potential as those vintage Champagne.

Bouchard Finlayson Auction Reserve Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2005
Cherry, berries, and oak was noted. Tannin was a bit strong which showed her cellaring potential. Dried black and red fruits and honey could be noted in the old wine, I was amused by the taste of dried red dates in her.

Kaapzicht Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003
A muscular wine displayed masculine characteristics. Strong black fruit, cherry and some grassy nose. When developed, she became meaty and full of dried berries. She should be able to get a very high RP marks. The winemaker also had a Pinotage, which was the only Pinotage in the Auction. But I could not taste her since when I reached her, no droplets was left.

Boplaas Vintage Reserve Port 2004
The alcohol was a bit too much in first sniff, then followed by black fruit, jam, spice, and some wood / forest signs. Almost no change could be noted in the old wine. Still had a long way to go.

Boschkloof Auction Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2004
The Australian winemaker d’Arenberg has similar product (Laughing Magpie, about $210 in Watson’s when discounted). The wine was full of berries, pepper and spice. Smooth on palate. The Viognier increased the layers of the wine, but you have to judge how much she worth when compare with the readily available Australian substitute.

Jordan Sophia 2004
If I must choose a red of the night for bidding, this would be my choice. Blackcurrant and mixed berries in nose and equally on palate. Rather alcoholic, but still balanced and long lasting in mouth. Only little leather was noted in the old wine, actually she remained very youthful. Possibly the wine with best ageing potential of the night.

Final Thoughts

Participating in this kind of Auction, to me, is a chance to collect wines that are not available in market rather than appreciating the wines. The wines will give you “face”. You can imagine, when your friends come to your home, and you open a bottle of the auctioned wine, and tell them the stories behind, which would definitely an interesting “show-off”. Maybe next year, we can consider gathering some friends to bid on several cases and share them when shipped back to Hong Kong.

Turkey Flat, Barossa Valley, Rose 2004

2006-10-26T01:02:00.000+08:00

我對玫瑰葡萄酒的認識十分有限，但我相信這應是一瓶典型的玫瑰酒。

對她的第一個感覺是「君子」，真的很淡！由格那希(Grenache)、赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)、切拉子(Shiraz )及多切托(Dolcetto)混合而成，顏色比一般的玫瑰酒為深。香味較淡，當心有櫻桃、黑莓及黑加侖子。她的表現令我想起廉價的波爾多餐酒。

入口幾乎完全感覺不到有單寧，果味十分充沛，易飲易明。我想秋季時，將她帶往燒烤將會是不錯的選擇。

Actually I am not very familiar with Rose wine, but I guess this is a typical one.

Blended with Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Dolcetto, her colour is much deeper than other rose. Nose is very light, just some simple cherry, blackberry and blackcurrant. She reminded me some inexpensive Bordeaux!

Almost no tannin was detected on palate. With plenty of fruitiness, she is just a simple wine for daily consumption. I think, she will be the best mate for barbecue in Autumn.

The World Atlas of Wine - Hugh Johnson & Jancis Robinson

2006-10-13T01:37:00.000+08:00

「亞馬遜」正價50美元，現特價31.5美元，書內的定價是35英鎊，但「三聯書店」只售港幣200大元，現更有八五折！

雖然已是2001年的出版，但書內很多參考資料仍十分有用，絕對值得大家買一本回家看看！

“Amazon.com” sells the book at US$50 in normal, currently at discounted price of US$31.5, and the book stated that the fixed price should be GBP$35, but the “Joint Publishing Bookstore” is selling it at HK$200 only, with 15% off discounted now!!

Although the book was published in 2001, lots of reference material in it are still very useful and valuable, I absolutely recommend you to buy one!!

Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Sparkling Cuvee Brut, NV

2006-10-02T21:40:00.000+08:00

我真的十分喜歡汽泡酒，每個夏季都要喝個痛快！

這瓶典型的澳洲汽泡酒，汽泡竟出奇地幼細，在鼻子出現了陣陣柑橘、桃子及少許蜂蜜的香味，之後更有點點的果仁氣息。入口則青檸和檸檬皮為主。雖然餘韻苦味有點過多，但酸度不太高，非常清新，女孩子該會愛上的。

一個晚上我已把好喝光了！

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I am definitely a passionate sparking wine lover, and enjoy them all the summer!

This is a typical Australian fizzy, and the bubbles are surprisingly fine. Citrus, peach and little honey appeared in my nose, with some nutty flavour at the end. When on palate, lime and lemon peel were the leaders. Although the bitterness in aftertaste was a bit too much, the low acidity and refreshing character of her would definitely be welcomed by ladies.

I finished a bottle in a night by myself!

Burgundy legend Jayer dies

2006-09-23T16:19:00.000+08:00

布根地的神話人物 Henri Jayer 逝世
又少了一位可被尊稱"papa"的釀酒師...

The legend of Burgundy died, losing a "papa" again...

(Please see Decanter's website for details: http://www.decanter.com/news/95544.html)

Villa Loosen, Riesling 2004, Germany

2006-09-14T13:41:00.000+08:00

這瓶應是德國的QbA。
我說應是因為瓶上並沒有清楚列明，只有寫上Qualitatswein，產地則寫上了Mosel-Saar-Ruwer。憑我有限的知識，這瓶應是德國的QbA。

酒比想像及預期甜，青蘋果及西柚的香氣中，隱隱出現了點點的酵母及辛辣，奇！

入口帶點柑橘，更有橙的甜和酸，多喝有點涸喉。

個人覺得配上不太甜的甜點應會不俗！

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This should be a QbA from Germany.
I say "should" because the wine label did not clearly shown that, but just written Qualitatswein, with geographical listed from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. According to my limited knowledge, this should be a QbA from Germany.

She is sweeter than I expected. Green apple and grapefruit aroma with hint of yeast and spice, stange! On palate, citrus fruit also appeared, especially the sweet and sour of orange. But a bit too sweet after drinking glasses.

Personally, I would take her with dessert that is not so sweet!

Ruffino Orvieto Classico DOC 2000, Italy

2006-09-09T15:52:00.000+08:00

自從最近參與了一次意大利葡萄酒晚宴後，對她們的酒興趣大增。
這瓶Orvieto，是由意大利的其中一所大型酒廠Ruffino所釀製，質素平平但勝在易入口。
淡淡的檸檬黃色，香氣以青蘋果、蜜瓜及少許香料的辛辣，入口酸度挺高，而且多了一點點的柑橘味道，如用來配巴馬火腿將十分怡人啊！

Orvieto位於意大利中部，以往主要只有甜酒，近年則出產不少乾身的白酒。由於土壤跟法國羅亞爾河谷中上游十分相似，所以Orvieto的酒很多時也帶有清爽的酸度。

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After attending an Italian wine dinner, I am interested in wine from her.
This Orvieto was produced by Ruffino, one of the largest winery in Italy. The wine is just acceptable, but very easy to be drunk.
Pale lemon in color, with green apple, melon and spicy aroma. Quite acidic on palate, with additional citrus taste. She should be a nice pal with Parma ham!

Oriveto is in the middle of Italy, maily produce sweet wine in the past. This kind of dry wine were not in production until recent years. As the soil is rather similar to the Loire Valley in France, the wines from Oriveto also possess refreshing acidity.

Austrian Night @ Kee Club

2006-09-01T01:41:00.000+08:00

最近認識的朋友中，有一位女士跟她的丈夫是Kee Club的會員，恰巧另一位朋友可聯絡一奧地利酒商提供贊助，於是促成了這頓晚飯。

Leo Hillinger Chardonnay 2005
十分年輕及清新的一瓶酒。
強烈的柑橘及杏仁香味，加上少許植物氣息，極「大路」的作品。
像水一般的酒身，配合挺高的酸度，一支很不錯的餐前酒。在口中出現了檸檬皮和香料味，餘韻卻帶點點的微苦。
大約一小時後整支酒已不行，是快開快喝型。

R&A Pfaffl – Wien 2, 2005 (Cuvee of Blauer Zweigelt & Pinot Noir)
淡淡的紫紅色，看上去頗吸引。
十分新鮮的紅果(紅莓及草莓)和少許植物氣息，有點像新世界的黑皮諾。
入口單寧很低，而且有頗甜的感覺，可是卻不像是葡萄的果糖，有可能是經加糖處理，不大吸引的一瓶酒。

R&A Pfaffl – Goldjoch Gruner Veltliner 2004
大概是冰得太冷的關係，此酒初時十分緊閉。大約十五分鐘後，開始出現點點的香蕉香氣，十分有趣。
在口中的第一感覺是香料的辛辣,，之後再陸續出現蘋果，柑橘以及熱帶生果的味道，十分豐富，好酒！！！

Leo Hillinger – Hill 1, 2004 (Cuvee of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Zweigelt)
很強勁兼肌肉型的酒！
充滿黑加侖子、黑莓及巧克力香氣，入口雖然單寧有點點的粗糙，橡木味有點兒搶出來的感覺，但整體仍十分順滑，一瓶不俗的酒。

Muensenrieder – Samling TBA 1999
酒身已呈琥珀色，配合蜂蜜、乾葡萄及杏脯等乾果味，酸度挺足，餘韻長。
可是再之後又好像少了一份清爽的果酸，反而多了一份罐頭糖水的味道，多喝有點兒膩的感覺。

說回晚餐的Kee Club，是一會員制的會所，入會費挺高昂，未去前我以為會十分幽靜。可是當晚去到卻人頭湧湧，可能是因為星期五晚上舉行的舞會以致現場環境十分擠湧，男男女女都打扮得花枝招展，絕對是「to see and to be seen」的場合，難為我卻穿得極不濟，晚餐一完即離去，以免顯得格格不入。

晚餐食物質素不俗，十分喜歡他們的甜品「巧克力梳乎里」，有巧克力的甜和苦，配起雪芭來真是有趣。要批評的大概是他們的酒侍水準實有待改善，連最起碼的待人客把杯中酒喝完才再倒這基本應有知識也不曉得，卻要收取三百元一瓶酒的開瓶費，真是有點說不過去。

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A couple I recent met were members of Kee Club, and another new friend obtained sponsorship from Austrian wine merchant, and the result was an wonderful night in the venue.

Leo Hillinger Chardonnay 2005
A young and refreshing wine with strong citrus and almond aroma with a hint of vegetal note, quite commercial.
The watery body and medium high acidity made her to be a nice pre-dinner drink. Lemon peels with spice were detected in mouth, with slightly bitter aftertaste.
However, she ended her life in about an hour, fast drinking wine.

R&A Pfaffl – Wien 2, 2005 (Cuvee of Blauer Zweigelt & Pinot Noir)
The pale purple-ruby color made her look sexy and attractive.
Fresh red fruit (raspberry and strawberry) with vegetal nose, a bit like Pinot Noir from New World vineyard.
Tannin is very low in mouth, and actually she was rather sweet on palate, but seemed not sweetness from the grape itself, I suspect the wine has undergone chaptalisation.
Not too attractive to me.

R&A Pfaffl – Goldjoch Gruner Veltliner 2004
Maybe she was chilled too cool and thus the wine was close at first. After about 15 minutes in glass, a hint of banana appeared, very interesting.
Spice came in my mouth first, followed by apple, citrus and tropical fruit taste, a rich and lovable wine, superb!!!

Leo Hillinger – Hill 1, 2004 (Cuvee of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Zweigelt)
Very powerful and muscular wine!
She was full of blackcurrant, blackberry and chocolate aroma. Although the tannin in mouth was a bit rough and the oak was a over emphasized, she was still a smooth and adorable wine.

Muensenrieder – Samling TBA 1999
The gold-amber color of wine was beautiful, supported by honey and dried fruit like raisin and apricot, adequate acidity, long finish.
After several mouth, she seemed lacking of the refreshing acidity of TBA from Germany, instead a taste of canned syrup appeared later, a bit too much for me.

Let’s go back to Kee Club, it is a private members only club requesting expensive joining fees, I original thought it would be very quiet in the venue. But when I arrived the place on that night, it was fully packed with exciting music as background. Perhaps it was due to the Friday party night there, everyone going in were fully dressed up, an absolute “to see and to be seen” occasion. But I was wearing so “incomparable” that I left once the dinner was finished to avoid unnecessary embarrassment.

Quality of food was nice, I like the Chocolate Souffl? with Sorbet very much, the sweetness and bitterness of chocolate just create sparks with the sorbet, interesting. If I have to criticize the Club, I would say the quality of waiters / sommeliers has to be improved through various training. They even did not know that refill should be made when and only when the glass of wine is finished. Such service requesting $300 per bottle of corkage fee is definitely unacceptable.

Hardys Nottage Hill Chardonnay Brut 2000, SE Australia

2006-08-24T12:59:00.000+08:00

某次逛超市時見到的特價品，考慮到新世界比較少製作年份汽酒，加上多數見到的是二○○四年的產物，這二千年的產品大概是倉底貨，兼且當時減價到只是九十多元，所以便買來試試。

撲鼻而來的柑橘、酵母及麵包香氣，之後再徐徐浮現桃子及蜂蜜，頗為吸引。

入口滿是青檸和檸檬皮，加上點點的烤土司香，可惜的是酸度只是一般而且餘韻的苦味有點過多，令她大打折扣，否則絕對是一瓶佳品。不過若再減價，我相信還是會買來喝喝。

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A sale item in supermarket, in view of her age (2000) and price ($90 something), I took her home to have a try.

Citrus, yeast and bread were detected on nose, and peach and honey appeared later, quite attractive.

On palate, she is full of lime and lemon peels, with a hint of toast. Unfortunately, her acidity is just at medium level and the bitterness was quite strong in aftertaste, marks were deducted on these reasons.

I think I will buy again only if she is on sale again.

Chateau Margaux 1900

2006-08-22T15:10:00.000+08:00

早兩天到澳門走走
意外地在澳門置地廣場酒店地面的一間葡萄酒商中見到這瓶被喻為二十世紀中最偉大的紅酒之一
雖然不是有機會一嘗
可是看看也好像能給心靈上的一點慰藉
呵呵呵!!!

另外此店藏酒極豐
絕對值得一往!!!

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Saw this one of the best wine in 20th Cebtury in the Cellar in the Landmark, Macau
Although there is no chance to taste her, still felt satisfied to see her as if I am a little fans of her

The collection in the Cellar is very great, absolutely worth visiting!!!

Domaine de la Fruitiere, AC Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie, 2004

2006-07-30T17:48:00.000+08:00

一瓶十分清新的羅亞爾河谷白酒
淡淡的檸檬黃色已讓人覺得好是夏日的佳伴
中等的身度中有著青蘋果、西柚、白花香，而且更隱約滲出點點的蜂蜜香氣，可是應有的酵母味卻不大發現到
入口時跟鼻子嗅到的差不多，而且多了點青檸味
絕對是消暑佳品！

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A refreshing white from Loire Valley
Her pale lemon appearance suggesting that she is the best mate for summer
Medium body with green apple, grapefruit, white flower and a hint of honey nose, but the yeasty character that should be found was undetected
On palate, almost the same as the nose, with addition of lime
An absolute summer wine!

Sopexa @ Yung Kee Restaurant

2006-07-28T09:03:00.000+08:00

五月中「法院食品協會」與「百佳超級市場」辦了一次推廣活動，就是在百佳買兩瓶法國葡萄酒便可以參加抽獎，有機會在六月三十日晚上在「鏞記酒家」吃頓晚飯。小弟十分幸運地成為得獎者之一，有機會出席該次晚宴，趁機說說當晚所見所聞所想所感。

通知信表示活動於晚上七時開始，我因交通擠塞問題而遲到了十五分鐘，但當時竟然只有約一半的座位已有人客，香港人的守時程度可見一班。

菜單屬於大路之作，並非甚麼特別菜色，最出色的依然是鏞記的招牌燒鵝，而擔當司儀的「王漢明先生」在開始時已清楚說明當晚沒有甚麼刻意的「酒菜配搭」，這方面的安排相信將來可有改善的空間。

當晚共有六瓶酒，全是百佳可找到的貨色，可惜我的詳細筆記因意外遺失，只能以僅有的記憶作簡短評語。

Lucien Albrecht, AC Cremant d’Alsace, Brut, NV
一支不錯的汽泡酒，充滿青蘋果香氣，加上少許柑橘類的氣息，作為餐前酒是一個挺值得推薦的選擇。

Domaine Vincent Sauvestre, AC Chablis 2003
好一瓶「君子之交」─真的淡如水！完全沒有Chablis應有的酸度，有可能是該瓶酒出現問題，不過我不會掏腰包多買一瓶來當白老鼠！

Michel Lynch Sauvignon Blanc, AC Bordeaux 2004
「靚次伯」的平價市場產品，十分新派的「長相思」，果味及酸度不算突出但仍可以接受，反而令人期待的青草氣息卻欠奉。

Michel Lynch Cabernet Sauvignon, AC Bordeaux 2001
同樣是「靚次伯」老闆 Jean-Michel Cazes 的產品，黑果味(主要是黑加侖子)頗明顯，頗其典型平價波爾多的特性。可惜的是單寧實在太粗糙，否則仍為日常餐酒是挺不錯的。

Delas Saint-Esprit, AC Cotes-du Rhone 2004
一向也覺得「隆河丘」的酒比較粗糙，這瓶也是如此，可喜的是紅果味吸引，尚算可接受的日常餐酒。

Le Dauphon de Guiraud, AC Sauternes 2002
金黃色的酒身漂亮得幾乎捨不得喝下去，非常令人著迷的蜂蜜和乾果香氣，入口亦十分順滑，但問題就在此時出現：酒的酸度嚴重不足，極不平衡的酒，令甜味在口中停留兩秒便消失得無影無?。

整晚活動其實頗豐富，既有問答遊戲環節送禮物，「法院食品協會」及「侍酒師協會」的人員亦大作公關，令氣氛甚為高漲及愉快，希望來年仍有機會參與 – 即是要再一次中獎！

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A dinner organized by Sopexa and Park’n Shop as prizes of Lucky Draw held in May. The menu was not tailor-made to match with the wine on the night, surely this would be the room for improvement in future. The 6 wines for the dinner are all available in Park’n shop, and the tasting notes from my memory (since I lost the written tasting notes!) are as following:

Lucien Albrecht, AC Cremant d’Alsace, Brut, NV
A nice sparkling wine from Alsace which is full of apple and some citrus nose and taste, a refreshing start for all occasions.

Domaine Vincent Sauvestre, AC Chablis 2003
This is a nice wine “if” you like water. The acidity of Chablis cannot be located in this wine, which may be the bottle variation / problem. But I would not dare to try another bottle “if” I have to pay it myself.

Michel Lynch Sauvignon Blanc, AC Bordeaux 2004
Lynch Bages’ product for the low-end market. New world style with medium fruitiness and acidity, but lack of the grassiness of traditional Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc.

Michel Lynch Cabernet Sauvignon, AC Bordeaux 2001
Another product from Jean-Michel Cazes, owner of Lynch Bages. The black fruit (blackcurrant) nose was quite attractive, very typical economic Bordeaux wine. Ideal daily table wine if you can accept the rough tannin in the wine.

Delas Saint-Esprit, AC Cotes-du Rhone 2004
Personally I always have a feeling that wine from Rhone will be rather rough, and so does this one. Luckily the adequate red fruit taste of the wine made her an acceptable table wine.

Le Dauphon de Guiraud, AC Sauternes 2002
The gold / amber color of the wine was very attractive. The nose of dried fruit and honey and smoothness in mouth made the wine a superb one in the beginning. The problem was that she was severely lack of acidity, making her rather unbalanced and the sweetness in mouth disappear quickly after you swallow her.

Actually the atmosphere of the dinner was good, as there were a number of game for distributing presents to participants. I hope there will be chance for me to join again next year – I have to win the Lucky Draw again!

Alta Vista Malbec 1998, Mendoza Argentina

2006-06-28T15:58:00.000+08:00

已忘了何時買的酒，而且不當地存放了多年，心想她大概也不行的了
中等紫紅色，紅果香氣(紅莓及櫻桃)尚算明顯
入口酸度頗高，單寧不強但卻粗糙，不大吸引

此等新世界大量生產的葡萄酒果然是該「即買即喝」啊！

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Could not recall when this wine was bought, but I thought she would not be a good one as she was stored improperly for years.
Medium purple colour, red fruit nose (raspberry and cherry) were noted.
Acidity quite high in mouth, tannin was not strong but rough, not attractive.

This kind of mass production from new world should always be drunk when they are bought!

dinner @ Gold Coast

2006-06-26T14:15:00.000+08:00

Moltes Gewurztraminer, Alsace, 2003
非常吸引的荔枝、蜂蜜及花香
可惜入口酸度不足，稍為偏甜
不大平衡，可能冰得太冷而仍是較緊閉

Ch Harquirs, Fronsac, 1998 (Magnum)
1.5升的大酒瓶
黑果(黑加侖士)及紅果(紅莓)香氣，後轉成茶葉，以及不太明顯的橡木味
入口單寧比較粗糙，果味及酸度一般

Perrin & Fils, Vinsobres les Cornuds, Cotes du Rhone, 2003
最近被「品醇客」選為「全球五十大超值紅酒」
十分明顯的黑果(西梅、黑莓)和紅果(紅莓、櫻桃)香氣，配上「隆河」(River Rhone)典型的煙燻及辛辣味，加上十分輕的植物氣息(vegetal)，挺多元化
入口果味與香氣相若，可惜單寧仍粗糙，橡木味及酒精比較明顯
不算出眾的酒

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Moltes Gewurztraminer, Alsace, 2003
Very attractive nose of lychee, honey and floral
But she is not acidic enough, a bit too sweet
Not balanced wine, maybe she was still close in the low temperature

Ch Harquirs, Fronsac, 1998 (Magnum)
A 1.5L big bottle.
Black (blackcurrant) and red (raspberry) fruit nose, turned to tea later, with a hint of oak
The rough tannin made me uncomfortable in mouth, and the fruitiness and acidity is just “so-so”

Perrin & Fils, Vinsobres les Cornuds, Cotes du Rhone, 2003
She was selected as “The World's 50 Best Value Reds” recently by Decanter Magazine
Adequate black (prune and blackberry) and red (raspberry and cherry) fruit, with typical smoky and spicy nose of River Rhone. Insignificant vegetal note was also detected. Quite rich in the nose.
On palate, the fruitiness is about the same as nose, but tannin is still rough, and quite oaky and alcoholic
Not really that outstanding as I expected

Huia Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2004, New Zealand

2006-06-20T10:07:00.000+08:00

酒呈淡淡的檸檬黃中卻又帶點點的綠，非常年輕的酒。

撲鼻而來的是青蘋果，青檸，檸檬，酒精味頗為明顯，同時亦有著點點不應出現的橡木味，奇怪。之後再出現蘋果，少許熱情果及草青味，風格實在離奇。

入口果味與香氣相若，中度酒身，酸度十分高，可惜餘韻較短，整體質素只屬一般。

註：前陣子忙得不可開交，現在望著一大堆筆記，有點千頭萬緒，不知從何整理起的感覺……

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Appearance of the wine was pale lemon wine with green tinge, showing the youth of her.

Green apple, lime and lemon were noted in nose, quite alcoholic with little hint of oak, strange. Smell of apple, with little passion fruit and a bit grassy were detected at a later stage. Very strange style wine.

Almost same fruit characters were reflected on palate, with medium body and very high acidity. But the aftertaste was rather short, making the wine just acceptable in overall.

P.S. Too busy recently, and lack of time to organize the tasting notes. Don’t know how to deal with them now…

Chateau Beychevelle 1994, Saint Julien AC, France

2006-05-27T11:15:00.000+08:00

生日當晚晚飯後回家，忽然很想開瓶酒飲飲看，於是往酒架檢視一番再作決定。一看之下竟發現此瓶「大龍船」出現滲漏！相信是瓶塞的水松木有問題，於是二話不說開了喝喝再算。

本來對此酒沒甚麼期望，因為：
一．94對於波爾多的酒來說是一個很不濟的年份；
二．此酒在我購買之前的儲存令我沒太大的信心(原因之後再說)；及
三．酒塞壞掉，氧化情況可能十分嚴重。
可是沒期望的事情往往會令人喜出望外！

打開封瓶的錫紙時，一陣非常強烈的甘草味湧進鼻子，太太笑說我買了瓶貴價「鐵打酒」！

當我將開瓶器插入瓶塞時，發現瓶塞因已滲滿了酒而變成像炖得十分透徹的「元蹄」一樣的軟綿綿，企圖把它拔出來時更將它弄得「粉身碎骨」！雖然以往閱讀的書曾有詳細講解此等情況的應付方法，而且亦不是第一次遇到這情況，但之前每次都有專人負責解決問題，需要我親自動手的這是第一趟。本想換瓶，可是又怕令已「弱不禁風」的酒更快衰老，所以打消了這念頭。

開瓶後湧出陣陣的酒精及木桶味，估不到十二年的酒仍會這樣！連木塞碎片倒出來的第一口酒幾近棕褐色，之後再倒出來的是深紫紅色帶著淡褐色的環，顯示酒已開始成熟。

在杯中浮現黑果(主要是黑加侖子，黑莓及西梅)，少許巧克力及乾葡萄的香味，之後再有陣陣的藍莓果醬香，未算太複雜。
入口單寧已十分順滑，中等酸度，帶著黑莓，梅子，櫻桃，收結時有點點陳皮及嘉應子，餘韻頗長，甚為可取

一九九四年是波爾多典型的壞年份，但此酒仍十分平衡，絕對是可以接受的。

註：此酒得來有個小故事。話說某日任職核數師樓的好友突然喚我到九龍某處，抵達是才知原來有酒樓結業，由他的公司負責清盤工作，於是他便相約我到「夜冷店」買平貨，最後以一百五十大元買下這瓶大龍船(不過當時其實有點擔心酒樓儲存餐酒的水準不足)，另加五百買了瓶Chivas 21 Years Old Royal Salute，現在看來算得上十分划算啊！

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The wine was opened on my birthday because of the cork failure! Leakage of wine was found as the cork was problematic. I was worried that the wine may have been damaged or turned bad, but indeed she was unexpectedly good!

Very strong liquorices smell even before the cork was pulled out. When opened, it was rather oaky and alcoholic when smelled the bottle mouth at first, which should not be expected from a 12 years old wine.

The first glass was light tawny in colour, and the following glasses were dark ruby with light brown rim. She was “maturing”!

Black fruit nose (blackcurrant, blackberry and prune) with hint of chocolate and raisin, followed by blueberry jam, not too complicated.

Tannin was quite smooth and medium acidity, the wine was full of berry and cherry taste on palate, and finished with some preserved tangerine peel. The aftertaste was quite long and nice.

1994 was a bad year for Bordeaux but not for this balanced wine, surprise gift for my birthday!

Wellcome

2006-05-12T11:58:00.000+08:00

竟然在惠康超級市場見到有Chateau du Tertre
雖然此五級酒並不怎樣出色
甚至有不少人對她作出嚴厲的劣評
可是我想在超市中可見到有列級酒出售
是否意味香港的酒類市場已漸趨成熟
越來越多人對品酒有興趣
酒商亦更加進取呢?

但不管如何
我相信消費者可以有越多的選擇
一定是越好的

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Surprised to see Chateau du Tertre in Wellcome Supermarket at Gold Coast
Although this may not be an outstanding wine, but I think this is definitely a sign of maturation of wine market of Hong Kong, as well as the sellers’ aggressiveness in expanding the market

The more choices that consumers have, it is always the better for them!

Cloof Dusty Road, Pinotage 2001, South Africa

2006-05-04T11:32:00.000+08:00

閱報後因貪念而買的酒(因有很多贈品啊！)

開瓶時酒精及木桶味嗆鼻得很
其後酒味漸漸散去
隱隱的滲出點點紅果香氣(紅莓及士多啤梨)

入口酸度及紅果味道足夠
而且有點搶著的走出來
多喝的話很易令人有吃不消的感覺
最大的問題是木味太濃
整個口腔在喝後也是澀澀的

我想在云云一百港元的紅酒選擇中
這瓶絕不會是首選

喝這酒令我忽然想起麥可布羅本(Michael Broadbent) 在品醇客(Decanter)的專欄中 (2005年4月及2006年2月)
不知是認真還是說笑的建議
酒廠日後的出品可隨酒附送一包像茶包的橡木片
喝酒時便可把該包木片浸在酒中
到時便可以「要幾木有幾木」！

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A very successful wine in marketing by using souvenirs to attract customers ( I am one of them!)

Very alcoholic and oaky when opened, followed by mixed red fruits nose (raspberry and strawberry)
Adequate acidity and red fruit taste in mouth, but soon have a feeling of fed up as the tastes are "too rich"
The biggest problem is that she is too oaky, bad feelings on palate

This is definitely not the first choice of the same price range (~HK$100)

This wine reminded me an article written by Mr Michael Broadbent in his column in Decanter (April 2005 and February 2006)
Not sure whether it is a joke or something else, Mr Broadbent suggested that wine makers can provide a bag of oak chips with the wine, drinkers can put the "oak bag" in wine when they have it so as to ensure the wine can be as oaky as possible!

What an interesting suggestion :)

Jacob's Creek Chardonnay Pint Noir Brut Cuvee, NV

2006-05-02T01:03:00.000+08:00

澳洲大廠出品的汽泡酒
清爽的西柚和青檸皮及豐富的餅乾味
酸度不算太高
非常的易入口
一個人輕輕鬆鬆也會喝掉一整瓶

雖然是在瓶內進行二次發酵
可是汽泡卻不見得細緻滑溜
這點較令人失望
酒廠該想辦法改善一下

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Sparkling wine of Australian Giant
Refreshing citrus fruit and rich biscuits taste with moderate acidity
The wine herself is so approachable that everyone can have the entire bottle

One disappointing fact is that the bubbles are a bit course although she was bottle fermented
The company should work on this

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2003 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

2006-04-28T09:00:00.000+08:00

檸檬黃的顏色中帶著點點的綠
非常的年青

開瓶時蜂蜜及蘋果香氣極吸引
之後再浮出輕輕的檸檬橘子
簡單直接地展現德國薏絲琳的風格

可惜的是入口偏甜
比較涸喉
酸度尚算足夠
令整瓶酒大致上也可稱得上平衡
不俗的酒
尤其是適合一般時候不喝酒的女士
不過要小心喝醉啊>_<”

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Lemon color with green tinge, a young and energetic wine

Attractive honey and apple nose attacked me when the wine was opened
Hint of citrus nose was noted later
This wine showed typical style of Germany Riesling

The weakness of the wine was a bit over-sweetened
Fortunately acidity was adequate, making the wine balance
A nice wine for female non-drinkers, but beware of being drunk >_<”