Pre-Auction Tasting of the 2006 Nedbank Cape Winemaker Guild Auction of Rare Cape Wines

南非的「開普敦釀酒師公會」(暫譯，下稱公會)是一個由南非頂尖釀酒師組成的協會，每年十月公會都會舉行慈善拍賣。本年十月三日他們在深水灣徑的「皇冠酒窖」(暫譯，下稱酒窖)進行了一次拍賣前的試酒會。

公會及拍賣會背景

公會早於一九八二年成立，現時有37位會員，新會員必須由現有會員推薦及投票才可加入公會，能成為會員是對釀酒師的技術及能力的肯定。

拍賣會在一九八五年第一次舉行，目的是推廣公會會員的葡萄酒。一九九九年，公會與贊助活動的南非銀行Nedbank聯合成立了一發展基金，將拍賣得到的收益撥用了社區發展及幫助弱勢社群。

拍賣的葡萄酒全都是經公會會員嚴格篩選，以蒙瓶試飲的方式，將品質最好的葡萄酒挑選為拍賣會上的珍品。

試酒會場地及安排

皇冠酒窖位於壽臣山深水灣徑，是由二次大戰時遺下的防空洞及軍火庫改建而成。負責人(一名老外)曾跟筆者笑說由於該處結構穩固，大戰幾近沒有人員傷亡，所以該處「風水」極佳云云。

對當晚試酒會的安排，個人覺得有兩點(一褒一貶)值得說說。我本以為各酒莊的釀酒師會出席該次活動，介紹他們的酒、釀酒理念、或對行業前景的觀點，但令人失望的是該晚是「酒到人不到」。不過值得一讚的是由於酒窖每款可供試飲的酒均收到兩瓶，因此工作人員將其中一瓶在試酒會前一星期已開瓶，目的是顯示出有關葡萄酒的「陳年潛質」，估計一星期的發展跟在瓶中熟成10至15年相似。

試酒

說完了沉悶的背景資料，現在講講當晚的酒吧。當晚我試了大約七十瓶酒，整體表現甚為統一，新酒大致上都是以果味(黑果及紅果)為主，而已發展的酒則有香草，植物(木)，動物等氣息。以下是我印象較深的十數瓶，但並非筆者覺得極優質的推介(排列是跟拍賣次序)。

Hartenberg Gravel Hill Shiraz 2003
很強的一瓶酒，充滿黑莓、梅子、胡椒、香料及煙燻。熟成後出現皮革、肉類及果醬味道，該是一瓶有潛質的葡萄酒。

Rudera Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest Auction Reserve 2006 (375ml)
十分出色的甜酒，富蜂蜜、葡萄、蜜蠟及花香，極之易入口。在2005年的拍賣會中，她的成交價是全場最高：4,000南非鍰一箱六瓶(南非鍰跟港幣大約是一對一)。不過我對此高價則不太認同。

Cordoba Auction Reserve 2003
封閉的酒，有點點的黑加侖子味，熟成後出現燒焦的口味。意想不到地她由品麗(Cabernet Franc)珠釀成的！我個人認為不太值得儲藏。

Jordan Chardonnay Reserve 2005
牛油、蜂巢、蜜蠟、菠蘿、桃子及點點的乾果，非常複雜及新世界的感覺。對喜愛經橡木處理莎當妮(Chardonnay)的人士，她絕對是一個值得一嘗的選擇。

Neil Ellis Auction Reserve Syrah 2003
當晚最典型的酒 – 黑果混合紅果，配上香草及土地氣息，入口有果實的甜美，餘韻悠長，是一瓶有潛質的好酒。

Lourensford Limited Release 2004
另一瓶值得一提的葡萄酒 – 黑加侖子及黑莓，加上點點的橡木及胡椒。濕樹葉、焦油和動物氣息出現在熟成的酒中。感覺上很波爾多，但原來卻是由赤霞珠、切拉子及梅鹿釀成的。

Hartenberg Dry Weisser Riesling-Auction Reserve 2005
這是我全晚最喜歡的酒。非常的優雅，配合青蘋果，蜂蜜及花香，入口十分順滑，更帶有點點的貴族霉和柑橘味。可惜我相信她的陳年潛質極有限，就像澳洲格拉爾谷(Clare Valley)的薏絲琳。

Nitida Auction Selection Shiraz 2004
十分隆河區的葡萄酒，充滿著莓子，胡椒，香料等，加上天然的果甜，喝得舒暢！香草，青草及甘草(全是草？！)則在熟成後的酒出現。

Villiera Chardonnay Brut Blanc de Blanc 2003
全場唯一的汽泡酒。第一次試飲時香氣非常淡薄，只有點點的柑橘，但氣泡則非常幼細，入口香滑。當晚再試時開放了不少，十分優雅，但她的表現令我懷疑她是否擁有如其他年分香檳的陳年潛質。

Bouchard Finlayson Auction Reserve Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2005
櫻桃，莓子及橡木，單寧頗強，相信有陳年的潛質。熟成後出現乾果及蜂蜜味道，令我覺得最有趣是她的紅棗味。

Kaapzicht Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003
非常強壯的酒，濃郁的黑果，櫻桃及點點青草味，陳年後有肉類及乾莓的味道，柏加該給她不俗的分數。同廠另有一瓶Pinotage，可惜已被喝清，試不到！

Boplaas Vintage Reserve Port 2004
在鼻中第一感覺是酒精極強，之後出現黑果，果醬，香料，及點點的森林感覺。在熟成的酒中竟沒大改變，難道有那麼強的潛質嗎？

Boschkloof Auction Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2004
澳洲有一酒莊 d’Arenberg 有類似的產物 (Laughing Magpie，售價約港幣$210)。充滿莓子，胡椒及香料，入口滑，Viognier 令她的複雜性增強不少。不過在有澳洲代替品的前題下，是否值得競投嘛……

Jordan Sophia 2004
如我一定要參與競投，她就是我的對象。在鼻中及口中均出現豐富的黑加侖子配合雜莓，酒精明顯，但在口中平衡感十分好，餘韻長。熟成後有點點的皮革，但仍十分年青，相信陳年潛質十分優厚。

試後感

對於這類拍賣會，我相信是收集市面少見的葡萄酒最有效的方法，同時亦是顯露閣下的派頭的好方法。你可想想，當別人去到府上作客，你開瓶酒，慢慢道出酒的來歷，背後的故事等等，多酷！！！至於酒的品嚐價值則見人見智了。另外，較划算的參與拍賣會的方式，我想大概是集合幾位朋友一起競投，然後運回香港，那便「既有面，又不用太多錢」！

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The Cape Winemaker Guild (CWG) of South Africa, which is an organization of South African top wine producers, held a Pre-Auction Tasting at the Crown Wine Cellar in Hong Kong on 3 October 2006.

Background of the Auction

The CWG was established in 1982 by eight independent winemakers. The number of members grew to 37 at present. To become a member, a winemaker has to be invited to join the Guild. Invitation to join the CWG follows a process of nomination (a potential member has to be nominated by an existing member) and voting at the Guild’s annual general meeting. The Guild is about winemakers, about their abilities, philosophies and achievements and their ongoing dedication to the production of quality wines.

As a means of promoting their wines, the members of the Guild held their first public Auction in 1985. In 1999, together with its Auction sponsor Nedbank, the CWG established the Nedbank CWG Development Trust. Assisting with the social, educational and training needs of those living in the wine growing regions of South Africa, the Trust renders a worthwhile contribution towards the development and empowerment of previously disadvantaged communities.

Auction wines undergo rigorous screening by the members of the Guild at a blind tasting, where the identity of wines being tasted is not revealed. Wines are selected for their technical excellence, premium quality and maturation potential.

Tasting Venue and Arrangement

Crown Wine Cellars (the Cellars) is located in Shouson Hill, boasts 6 underground cellars, and a private members clubhouse comprised of 2 underground bunkers and a newly constructed conservatory. The original structures were constructed almost 70 years ago by the British Military to serve as an ammunition and weapons storage depot in preparation for World War II.

On the night, everyone arrived the Cellars can participate in the tasting session, no matter you have pre-registered or not. Nobody checked your identity indeed! Two arrangements of the night may worth mentioning - one disappointing and one praise-worthy. When I reached the venue, I was a bit disappointed as all the wines available were just opened and put on the table, whereas I originally expected that the winemakers would present in the function to share their ideas on their own wine and their vision on the industry. The good thing was that there were two bottles of each available wine in the room, and the staff of the Cellars had opened one bottle a week ago while uncorked the other bottle just before the event. This arrangement helped the wines to show “some” of their ageing potentials and possible development as oxidation had taken place for a week, which resembled placing them in cellars for 10 – 15 years (rough estimation). This made assessment on them become easier.

The Wines

Too much on the boring facts, let’s talk about the wines.

Generally speaking, most of the wines I tasted in the night (about 70 bottles! My tongue and lips lost feeling for some moments!) were quite consistent. Black and / or red fruit characters dominated in the “young” ones while development to herbs, wood, animals and toast were observed in the “old” wines. The following are wines that gave me deeper impression than others, but they were not necessarily the better ones. (The wines listed below were in order of auction sequence.)

Hartenberg Gravel Hill Shiraz 2003
A very strong wine with nice blackberry, plum, pepper, spice and little smokiness. Leather, meat and jam tasted were noted in old ones. She should develop well in bottles.

Rudera Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest Auction Reserve 2006 (375ml)
Good quality dessert wine with honey, grapes, wax and floral note in my nose. She was extremely easy to drink. In 2005 Auction, she received the highest bid at R$4,000 per case of 6 half-bottles (South African Rand is about 1:1 to Hong Kong dollars) but I doubted whether she worth this price.

Cordoba Auction Reserve 2003
Closed with hint of blackcurrant, some burnt taste was noted in old. Unexpectedly she was dominated by Cabernet Franc! Not too worth for cellaring, I personally think.

Jordan Chardonnay Reserve 2005
Butter, honeycomb, wax, pineapple, peach and a little hint of dried fruit, a very complex and New World style Chardonnay. You would like her if you love Chardonnay with heavy oak treatment.

Neil Ellis Auction Reserve Syrah 2003
A typical wine of the night – black and red fruit with herbs and earthy taste. Very sweet on palate. Finish was long and lovely. Nice wine with good ageing potential.

Lourensford Limited Release 2004
Another typical wine worth tasting and mentioning – black fruit (blackcurrant and berry) with some woody and peppery taste. Wet leaves, tar and animal nose were noted in the old one. Quite Bordeaux style but actually she had blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot.

Hartenberg Dry Weisser Riesling-Auction Reserve 2005
This is the most impressive wine to me in the night. Very elegant, with green fruit, honey, floral nose. Smooth and botrytised citrus taste on palate. But not too much ageing potential, just like some Riesling in Clare Valley of Australia.

Nitida Auction Selection Shiraz 2004
She was rather Rhone style (the official tasting note had the same thing mentioned). Berry, pepper and spice were noted and natural sweetness on palate, pleasant! Herbs, grass and liquorices were found in developed wine.

Villiera Chardonnay Brut Blanc de Blanc 2003
The only sparkling wine in the Auction. When first tried, the nose was very weak, might be closed. Only citrus peels could be detected, but bubbles were very fine and extremely smooth in mouth. When I re-visited her later in the night, she was much more opened with elegancy. However, I wonder whether she had any ageing potential as those vintage Champagne.

Bouchard Finlayson Auction Reserve Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2005
Cherry, berries, and oak was noted. Tannin was a bit strong which showed her cellaring potential. Dried black and red fruits and honey could be noted in the old wine, I was amused by the taste of dried red dates in her.

Kaapzicht Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003
A muscular wine displayed masculine characteristics. Strong black fruit, cherry and some grassy nose. When developed, she became meaty and full of dried berries. She should be able to get a very high RP marks. The winemaker also had a Pinotage, which was the only Pinotage in the Auction. But I could not taste her since when I reached her, no droplets was left.

Boplaas Vintage Reserve Port 2004
The alcohol was a bit too much in first sniff, then followed by black fruit, jam, spice, and some wood / forest signs. Almost no change could be noted in the old wine. Still had a long way to go.

Boschkloof Auction Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2004
The Australian winemaker d’Arenberg has similar product (Laughing Magpie, about $210 in Watson’s when discounted). The wine was full of berries, pepper and spice. Smooth on palate. The Viognier increased the layers of the wine, but you have to judge how much she worth when compare with the readily available Australian substitute.

Jordan Sophia 2004
If I must choose a red of the night for bidding, this would be my choice. Blackcurrant and mixed berries in nose and equally on palate. Rather alcoholic, but still balanced and long lasting in mouth. Only little leather was noted in the old wine, actually she remained very youthful. Possibly the wine with best ageing potential of the night.

Final Thoughts

Participating in this kind of Auction, to me, is a chance to collect wines that are not available in market rather than appreciating the wines. The wines will give you “face”. You can imagine, when your friends come to your home, and you open a bottle of the auctioned wine, and tell them the stories behind, which would definitely an interesting “show-off”. Maybe next year, we can consider gathering some friends to bid on several cases and share them when shipped back to Hong Kong.