星期六, 5月 27, 2006

Chateau Beychevelle 1994, Saint Julien AC, France


生日當晚晚飯後回家,忽然很想開瓶酒飲飲看,於是往酒架檢視一番再作決定。一看之下竟發現此瓶「大龍船」出現滲漏!相信是瓶塞的水松木有問題,於是二話不說開了喝喝再算。

本來對此酒沒甚麼期望,因為:
一.94對於波爾多的酒來說是一個很不濟的年份;
二.此酒在我購買之前的儲存令我沒太大的信心(原因之後再說);及
三.酒塞壞掉,氧化情況可能十分嚴重。
可是沒期望的事情往往會令人喜出望外!

打開封瓶的錫紙時,一陣非常強烈的甘草味湧進鼻子,太太笑說我買了瓶貴價「鐵打酒」!

當我將開瓶器插入瓶塞時,發現瓶塞因已滲滿了酒而變成像炖得十分透徹的「元蹄」一樣的軟綿綿,企圖把它拔出來時更將它弄得「粉身碎骨」!雖然以往閱讀的書曾有詳細講解此等情況的應付方法,而且亦不是第一次遇到這情況,但之前每次都有專人負責解決問題,需要我親自動手的這是第一趟。本想換瓶,可是又怕令已「弱不禁風」的酒更快衰老,所以打消了這念頭。

開瓶後湧出陣陣的酒精及木桶味,估不到十二年的酒仍會這樣!連木塞碎片倒出來的第一口酒幾近棕褐色,之後再倒出來的是深紫紅色帶著淡褐色的環,顯示酒已開始成熟。

在杯中浮現黑果(主要是黑加侖子,黑莓及西梅),少許巧克力及乾葡萄的香味,之後再有陣陣的藍莓果醬香,未算太複雜。
入口單寧已十分順滑,中等酸度,帶著黑莓,梅子,櫻桃,收結時有點點陳皮及嘉應子,餘韻頗長,甚為可取

一九九四年是波爾多典型的壞年份,但此酒仍十分平衡,絕對是可以接受的。

註:此酒得來有個小故事。話說某日任職核數師樓的好友突然喚我到九龍某處,抵達是才知原來有酒樓結業,由他的公司負責清盤工作,於是他便相約我到「夜冷店」買平貨,最後以一百五十大元買下這瓶大龍船(不過當時其實有點擔心酒樓儲存餐酒的水準不足),另加五百買了瓶Chivas 21 Years Old Royal Salute,現在看來算得上十分划算啊!

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The wine was opened on my birthday because of the cork failure! Leakage of wine was found as the cork was problematic. I was worried that the wine may have been damaged or turned bad, but indeed she was unexpectedly good!

Very strong liquorices smell even before the cork was pulled out. When opened, it was rather oaky and alcoholic when smelled the bottle mouth at first, which should not be expected from a 12 years old wine.

The first glass was light tawny in colour, and the following glasses were dark ruby with light brown rim. She was “maturing”!

Black fruit nose (blackcurrant, blackberry and prune) with hint of chocolate and raisin, followed by blueberry jam, not too complicated.

Tannin was quite smooth and medium acidity, the wine was full of berry and cherry taste on palate, and finished with some preserved tangerine peel. The aftertaste was quite long and nice.

1994 was a bad year for Bordeaux but not for this balanced wine, surprise gift for my birthday!

1 Comments:

At 11:15 上午, Anonymous 匿名 said...

嘩!$150抵搏啦,當時比著我都會買黎搏下!

 

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