Life Expectance of Wine
跟酒友們吃晚飯,本沒甚麼特別,但倒有一瓶酒引起了我想談談一個題目:葡萄酒的壽命。
是次晚飯大部分酒友都是帶來波爾多左、右岸的葡萄酒。其中一位朋友(剛巧是我同事)的酒是Sarget de Gruaud-Larose 2000。由於他之前曾被委派往外地工作,調回香港時他刻意運回大批葡萄酒,可惜運送途中似乎因運輸公司的失誤而熱壞了不了他的收藏品,這瓶酒是其中之一。
可能先入為主,因聽過他的事故,加上開瓶時發覺有點滲漏,所以對該酒可說沒期望。原瓶呼吸了約一小時後倒進杯中,木桶、咖啡及枝梗比較明顯,果味十分隱晦。入口單寧仍然實在,輕至中等酸度卻叫人摸不著果實的味道,心裡不禁跳到結論:壞掉了。
但及後「白襯衣」酒友提出這瓶酒其實仍是給人青青綠綠的感覺,其實是仍有發展及成熟的空間。於是我再倒酒到杯中,細心留意她之後的演變,的確她漸漸浮現出青椒、蘑菇香氣,入口紅果類的酸度亦漸見明顯,但之後便停了下來,再沒甚麼變化。
「白襯衣」酒友指有質素的葡萄酒在受傷過後,其實可通過慢慢的療養回復表現。對於此觀點,我想要留待時間及我的品酒經驗才可印證到,但這瓶「受過傷」的葡萄酒提醒了我一個重點:酒海無涯,任何事也有可能發生,所以千萬不要太快對葡萄酒下結論。
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Tasted a bottle of Sarget de Gruaud-Larose 2000 recently which was originally certified to be dead due to extreme heat during transportation. She expressed oak barrel, coffee and branches after a hour of breathing in the original bottle, but later she showed green pepper, mushroom and red fruit, which was indeed improvement in overall performance.
Tata suggested that quality wine can be “recovered” even after man-made damage. I think I will focus on this to prove whether this theory is correct or not. But this experience clearly gave me a lesson – never jump to conclusion on wine.
標籤: Bordeaux, Gruaud-Larose
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