Two-and-a-half Pair @ Crown Wine Cellar

有一段日子沒見過面的朋友忽然相約吃飯喝酒，那管近來工作多忙，下班後即時「飛的」到深水灣徑的「皇冠酒窖」。是夜主題為「布根地」，可是5瓶葡萄酒當中竟出現了兩對相同產區的，到底是我們對布根地的認識太少而只選「大路」產物，還是梅索(Meursault)和香貝丹(Chambertin)真是太吸引人呢？

雖然兩瓶梅索都是最基本的白酒，並沒有列級，可是喝起來也十分美味。簡簡單單的以豐富的果味，如青葡萄、杏脯、桃子等支撐整體表現，配以礦物和喉頭上的微甘作收結。而當中以J-F Coche Dury的果味比較濃郁，而Olivier Leflaive則比較纖幼。可是兩者的酸度也較想像的低，否則兩瓶都會是出色的產物。

看到J-F Coche Dury，不其然想起布根地酒莊與酒莊之間微妙且複雜的關係，又想起網友deetsang也曾提及金杯，大家可以看看大師級人馬的意見：
還是金杯的好！

Blagny則是我首次接觸的產區，可是這瓶酒真的不是太出色。酒身出乎意料的粗糙，香料類的辛辣及酒精都有點過多，不太平衡。雖說是一級田，但我想大概一級之中也有頭尾之分罷。

兩瓶香貝丹(雖然不是很準確的同一區)，有點像老大哥欺負小男孩。Chanson的最基本香貝丹，落杯時的香氣非常吸引，果味挺濃，配上點點像煮白菜的植物氣息，很是黑皮諾或布根地的模範教材，缺點是酸度實在太低，而且欠缺變化，始終小孩子一般都應該是簡簡單單的才像小孩子。那當飽經風霜的特級田老大哥出場又如何呢？香氣頗收儉，隱約地感覺到點點的紅莓乾及潮濕的森林，入口紅果類融為一體，幾乎分不開有甚麼在其中，十分高的酸度令餘韻極之悠長。隨後的時間，每十分鐘她便展現多點不同的感覺，首先不同的果實味道變得清晰明顯，配上特別的味道，例如嘉應子、黑松露、泥土、醬油及陳皮等，越是顯出她的複雜程度。老實說，Louis Remy釀的酒並不是特別出色，但先天條件優厚，加上經長時間熟成而得出此住釀，大概是注定的。

淺酌輕嘗，把酒談歡，跟朋友喝酒談天是一件十分美好的事情。但始終「alcohol is not conducive to good behaviour」，像當晚7個人喝5支葡萄酒後，微醺的感覺還是比酩酊大醉來得舒適。
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How would it be for a pair of Meursault, a pair of Chambertin and a Blagny appear together in a dinner? That was a recent experience I have in Crown Wine Cellar.

2 bottles of Meursault were just showing the powerful fruitiness and vivid style to us. The J-F Coche Dury emphasized on fruit while Olivier Leflaive was more on elegance. Although these two bottles were just simple Bourgogne, they were still lovely to taste except their problem of low acidity.

Blagny was completely new to me, but this rather rough, over spicy and alcoholic wine was definitely not my favourite. She showed the fact that there are always good and bad stuff among 1er Cru.

Finally, two Chambertin, though actually they were from 2 separate areas, just showed how young kid being bullied by strong adult. The Chanson is a very to-style simple Bourgogne - strong red fruit with some vegetal note, simple kid which should be welcomed by lots of people. How about the 22-years old lady? Well, she was a shy girl at first. Most of the fruit characters were not shown clearly and only presented high acidity which made the aftertaste so long. Later, she was just trying to show off her every aspect: different kinds of red fruit together with some “old wine” characters like soy sauce, black truffle, soil, preserved fruits, etc. I personally reckon that Louis Remy was not an extremely outstanding wine-maker, but her assets (Grand Cru) is so strong and the long time of cellaring just made this lady a charming woman.

“Alcohol is not conducive to good behaviour” (I like this sentence very much), and the level of alcohol in my blood was just right on the night.