BBR Burgundy Tasting on 7 Feb 2007

數日前收到BBR寄來的電郵，介紹在2月7日晚上舉行的試酒會。今次的試酒會竟然要收費，但考慮到試的都是布根地佳釀，加上有該公司的葡萄酒部董事Alun Griffiths MW出席，當上一課也該值得，而且入場費也可以用作扣除買酒的費用，最後還是乖乖付款報名了。

當日下午放了半天假，跟很久沒有拍過拖的太太到Cova吃了個下午茶自助餐，飽得要命，但真是值得一試的，強烈推薦各位一試。六時半施施然的走到BBR的店舖，等了又等，客人越來越多，但遲遲未見Mr Griffiths，結果他表示因的士司機迷了路而遲到云云，可憐的我卻是等了差不多等了四十五分鐘才正式開始。以下是我對6支葡萄酒的印象：

2003 Vougeot Blanc, Les Cras, 1er Cru, Domaine Bertagna
充滿蜂蜜、菠蘿及李子的香氣，入口有可口的酸度，帶菠蘿的甜酸，慢慢出現了滿口火石和礦物的味道，餘韻帶莎當妮應有的甘。頗不俗。

2003 Pommard, Grands Epenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Hubert de Montille
紫紅色的年青葡萄酒，帶有櫻桃、紅莓、少許雲尼拿之中再有點點的黑果味，之後再浮現出香草類的香氣。入口感覺十分圓潤，中低度的酸味，配合櫻桃及紅莓的味道，放久了入口不太順滑。個人覺得這瓶酒太強太有力，優雅欠奉。話雖玻瑪的酒很多時也是豐厚有力的，但她給我的感覺，說得誇張點刻薄點，有點像加州來的黑皮諾……

2001 Volnay, Les Fremiets, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Boillot
寶石紅色酒身帶石榴邊，沉澱物較想像的多。香味以紅果(櫻桃及紅莓)加上植物氣息為主，十分典型的黑皮諾。在口中展現出濃濃的櫻桃及士多啤莉味之餘，亦有點點香料的辛辣。撇開價錢這因素，我相信她可作為布根地葡萄酒的教材。

2000 Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine Jacques Cacheux et Fils
酒身呈紅寶石的鮮艷，充滿紅果(櫻桃及紅莓)和植物(椰菜)的氣息，加上點點的泥土，挺複雜。入口十分滑溜，帶紅果及香料味，酒精比預期的明顯，但仍是一瓶平衡且可口的葡萄酒。

1991 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
中度的磚紅色，初時比較緊閉收歛，漸漸散發出植物、皮革、泥土及煙燻的氣息，紅果味不太明顯。在口中有極怡人的酸度，紅莓味也較明顯，意外地有點點的橡木味。這是我整晚覺得最適合現時飲用的酒，可惜當我想買時已售罄……

1985 Latricières Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
淺磚紅色之中帶點棕色，挺多沉澱物。氣息以動物(野味)、皮革、植物及濕葉為主，加上少許櫻桃、泥土和醬油，很典型成熟的布根地。入口極順滑，酸度高，櫻桃及紅莓味在口中很清晰，之後仍繼續有十分澎湃的果味，好酒。

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This was not a free tasting as BBR usually held, but I still joined it because: (1) it was a Burgundy night, (2) the Wine Director of BBR Mr Alun Griffiths MW would present, and (3) the admission fee can be used for reduction of the wine bought on the night.

After a heavy but lovely tea buffet with my wife in Cova, I went the BBR’s shop sharp at 6:30pm, but I almost turned into a fossil because Mr Griffiths was late for about 45 minutes. Anyway, it was a nice evening. My comments on the wines are as follows:

2003 Vougeot Blanc, Les Cras, 1er Cru, Domaine Bertagna
Full of honey, pineapple and peach in nose. On palate, the refreshing acidity brought by the sweet and sour of pineapple was really lovely. Flint and mineral were also noted later. Aftertaste showed the bitterness of Chardonnay. A nice wine.

2003 Pommard, Grands Epenots, 1er Cru, Domaine Hubert de Montille
A young wine of purple-ruby colour, with cherry, raspberry, vanilla and unexpected hint of black fruit, herbs were also noted later. She gave me a round feeling in mouth, with just low-medium acidity and cherry and raspberry taste, not too smooth after a while. I personally think that she is too strong too powerful and lack of elegance. It’s true that wine from Pommard are usually strong, but she looks like something from Napa.

2001 Volnay, Les Fremiets, 1er Cru, Domaine Jean Boillot
Ruby colour with pink rim, the sediments are more than I expected. Red fruit (cherry and raspberry) and vegetal note dominated the nose, rather typical Pinot Noir. Cherry and strawberry were noted on palate, with some spice. If price is not the consideration element, I think she would be a nice teaching material for lectures on Burgundy wine.

2000 Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Domaine Jacques Cacheux et Fils
Charming ruby colour with lots of red fruit (cherry and raspberry) and vegetal (cabbage) on nose, hint of earthy. Rather complicated wine. Very smooth on palate, with red fruit and spice, and alcohol is a bit more apparent than I expected. Still, she was a nice and balanced wine. Echézeaux is always Echézeaux.

1991 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
Medium brick red in appearance, she was a bit closed at first. Vegetal, leather, earthy and smoky nose came out slowly, and the red fruit was not too significant. Acidity was very nice on palate, and the taste of raspberry could be noted easily. Oak was also found, strange. I think among the bottles of the night, this one was the most suitable wine for immediate consumption, but sold out when I wanted to buy…

1985 Latricières Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Louis Remy
Pale brick red with some hint of garnet, lots of sediments when poured into glass. On nose, animals, leather, vegetal and wet leaves dominated, accompanied by cherry, earthy and soy sauce, typical matured Burgundy red. Extremely smooth on palate with high acidity, cherry and raspberry were clearly noted, fruitiness continued for a long time, good wine.