Triple White

在香港白葡萄酒的受歡迎程度遠不及紅葡萄酒，以致很多時一般大眾都會覺得「紅酒」等於「葡萄酒」。歸根究底，白酒不太受落的主要原因是她們一般酸度較高，酒精度偏低，加上以往劣質產品為數不少，因而令不少人卻步。但我個人覺得，白酒其實是較紅酒更適合初嚐葡萄酒的朋友作為入門選擇，因為在白酒中有機會出現的香氣及味道是較為我們(特別是東方人)熟悉，對於訓練品酒技巧時會相對更容易及更有成功感。例如當說起一瓶酒有蘋果、菠蘿及桃子的味道，相信很多人都會猜到大概是怎麼樣；但當形容黑莓、甘草及雪茄盒時，因為東方人較少接觸這些東西，所以會比較難掌握。

若以銷售量計算，白酒的數字遠較紅酒為少。但隨著品酒人士的水平提昇，配合起很多酒商的市場策略，一些白酒如長相思(Sauvignon Blanc)或汽泡酒等已漸為市場受落。另一方面，正因銷量一般，酒商們對白酒的訂價會比較審慎，所以市場上有不少傑出白酒的價錢是十分合理的。

最近嚐過幾瓶白酒，在此與大家分享一下。

Carmen Wine Maker's Reserve Chardonnay 2001, Chile
酒身呈黃帶金色，香氣初時稍薄，有檸檬、熱帶水果、牛油、雲尼拿及椰油等木桶類香氣。入口酒體頗豐滿順滑，中等酸度內帶熱情果及西柚味，餘韻中等，不過不失的一瓶莎當妮。

Taylors Jaraman Riesling 2002, Australia
淡黃帶點點青綠的酒身，最初只有淡淡的金屬、青草及嫩芽香氣，感覺青翠嫩綠卻冷冷的；之後酒溫開始回升，香氣亦與之並增，浮現出花蕾、白花、青蘋果、柑橘、桃子等，香氣的豐盛令人覺得像從乍暖還寒的初春走到炎炎盛夏。入口果味濃郁，而且有著明顯的香料辛辣，可惜酸度稍稍略低，但以港幣二百元的一瓶酒來說，她的物值仍是十分的高。

Hardy's Nottage Hill Chardonnay Brut (Sparkling) 2004, Australia
很普通的新世界汽泡酒，柑橘類香氣中有點點的烤吐司和酵母，汽泡不算太大卻疏落，在口中則多了的莎當妮的甘苦，很一般的「派對酒」。

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The popularity of white wine in Hong Kong is far behind red wine, which makes lots of people possess a misunderstanding of red wine equals wine. The major reasons for this include the high in acidity but low in alcohol level of the whites which may not be welcomed by Chinese, as well as the bad quality products previously in market projecting a negative image of white wines in people’s mind. However, I personally think whites are much better starting place for the beginners. It is because the aroma and taste that may appear in whites are easier to be recognized by us (oriental people); this can help enhancing the tasting techniques and confidence of wine lovers. For example, when I describe apple, pineapple and peach, I think most of the people can associate the tastes with those in their mind; but when I say blackberry, licorice and cigar box, which are not familiar with most oriental people, it will create difficulties in understanding the wine.

The sales volume of whites in Hong Kong is much less than reds. Nevertheless, with the enhancement of the level of wine lover as well as the change of marketing strategies of wine merchants, some white wines like Sauvignon Blanc or sparkling wines are gradually accepted by the market. On the other hand, as the sales is just so-so, the merchants are more prudent when considering the prices of the whites, hence quite a number of them are selling at reasonable prices in Hong Kong.

The following are tasting notes of 3 bottles of white I recent have for sharing with you.

Carmen Wine Maker's Reserve Chardonnay 2001, Chile
The golden-yellow lady showed some lemon, tropical fruit, butter, vanilla and coconut aromas. On palate, with the smooth and medium-full body, the taste of passion fruit and grapefruit with medium acidity were detected. Aftertaste was just medium, and this is then a typical “medium” Chardonnay.

Taylors Jaraman Riesling 2002, Australia
Pale yellow with some hint of green, the wine initially showed steel, grass and buds on nose, rather cold and green. As the temperature of wine increase, the fragrance also enhanced. Blossoms, white flower, green apple, citrus and peach were noted; she just let me have an impression of moving from cool spring to the hot summer. Fruitiness was more than expected in mouth, with very clear and heavy spicy taste. One weakness of her was the medium acidity which was a bit too low. Having considered she was just about HK$200, I would say she was definitely a worth to try.

Hardy's Nottage Hill Chardonnay Brut (Sparkling) 2004, Australia
A simple new world sparkling wine with citrus, toasts and yeast favors. The bubbles were not big but just a bit too few, and the bitterness of Chardonnay was also noted on palate. She was absolutely a “Party Wine”.