星期六, 5月 27, 2006

Chateau Beychevelle 1994, Saint Julien AC, France


生日當晚晚飯後回家,忽然很想開瓶酒飲飲看,於是往酒架檢視一番再作決定。一看之下竟發現此瓶「大龍船」出現滲漏!相信是瓶塞的水松木有問題,於是二話不說開了喝喝再算。

本來對此酒沒甚麼期望,因為:
一.94對於波爾多的酒來說是一個很不濟的年份;
二.此酒在我購買之前的儲存令我沒太大的信心(原因之後再說);及
三.酒塞壞掉,氧化情況可能十分嚴重。
可是沒期望的事情往往會令人喜出望外!

打開封瓶的錫紙時,一陣非常強烈的甘草味湧進鼻子,太太笑說我買了瓶貴價「鐵打酒」!

當我將開瓶器插入瓶塞時,發現瓶塞因已滲滿了酒而變成像炖得十分透徹的「元蹄」一樣的軟綿綿,企圖把它拔出來時更將它弄得「粉身碎骨」!雖然以往閱讀的書曾有詳細講解此等情況的應付方法,而且亦不是第一次遇到這情況,但之前每次都有專人負責解決問題,需要我親自動手的這是第一趟。本想換瓶,可是又怕令已「弱不禁風」的酒更快衰老,所以打消了這念頭。

開瓶後湧出陣陣的酒精及木桶味,估不到十二年的酒仍會這樣!連木塞碎片倒出來的第一口酒幾近棕褐色,之後再倒出來的是深紫紅色帶著淡褐色的環,顯示酒已開始成熟。

在杯中浮現黑果(主要是黑加侖子,黑莓及西梅),少許巧克力及乾葡萄的香味,之後再有陣陣的藍莓果醬香,未算太複雜。
入口單寧已十分順滑,中等酸度,帶著黑莓,梅子,櫻桃,收結時有點點陳皮及嘉應子,餘韻頗長,甚為可取

一九九四年是波爾多典型的壞年份,但此酒仍十分平衡,絕對是可以接受的。

註:此酒得來有個小故事。話說某日任職核數師樓的好友突然喚我到九龍某處,抵達是才知原來有酒樓結業,由他的公司負責清盤工作,於是他便相約我到「夜冷店」買平貨,最後以一百五十大元買下這瓶大龍船(不過當時其實有點擔心酒樓儲存餐酒的水準不足),另加五百買了瓶Chivas 21 Years Old Royal Salute,現在看來算得上十分划算啊!

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The wine was opened on my birthday because of the cork failure! Leakage of wine was found as the cork was problematic. I was worried that the wine may have been damaged or turned bad, but indeed she was unexpectedly good!

Very strong liquorices smell even before the cork was pulled out. When opened, it was rather oaky and alcoholic when smelled the bottle mouth at first, which should not be expected from a 12 years old wine.

The first glass was light tawny in colour, and the following glasses were dark ruby with light brown rim. She was “maturing”!

Black fruit nose (blackcurrant, blackberry and prune) with hint of chocolate and raisin, followed by blueberry jam, not too complicated.

Tannin was quite smooth and medium acidity, the wine was full of berry and cherry taste on palate, and finished with some preserved tangerine peel. The aftertaste was quite long and nice.

1994 was a bad year for Bordeaux but not for this balanced wine, surprise gift for my birthday!

星期五, 5月 12, 2006

Wellcome


竟然在惠康超級市場見到有Chateau du Tertre
雖然此五級酒並不怎樣出色
甚至有不少人對她作出嚴厲的劣評
可是我想在超市中可見到有列級酒出售
是否意味香港的酒類市場已漸趨成熟
越來越多人對品酒有興趣
酒商亦更加進取呢?

但不管如何
我相信消費者可以有越多的選擇
一定是越好的

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Surprised to see Chateau du Tertre in Wellcome Supermarket at Gold Coast
Although this may not be an outstanding wine, but I think this is definitely a sign of maturation of wine market of Hong Kong, as well as the sellers’ aggressiveness in expanding the market

The more choices that consumers have, it is always the better for them!

星期四, 5月 04, 2006

Cloof Dusty Road, Pinotage 2001, South Africa


閱報後因貪念而買的酒(因有很多贈品啊!)

開瓶時酒精及木桶味嗆鼻得很
其後酒味漸漸散去
隱隱的滲出點點紅果香氣(紅莓及士多啤梨)

入口酸度及紅果味道足夠
而且有點搶著的走出來
多喝的話很易令人有吃不消的感覺
最大的問題是木味太濃
整個口腔在喝後也是澀澀的

我想在云云一百港元的紅酒選擇中
這瓶絕不會是首選

喝這酒令我忽然想起麥可布羅本(Michael Broadbent) 在品醇客(Decanter)的專欄中 (2005年4月及2006年2月)
不知是認真還是說笑的建議
酒廠日後的出品可隨酒附送一包像茶包的橡木片
喝酒時便可把該包木片浸在酒中
到時便可以「要幾木有幾木」!

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A very successful wine in marketing by using souvenirs to attract customers ( I am one of them!)

Very alcoholic and oaky when opened, followed by mixed red fruits nose (raspberry and strawberry)
Adequate acidity and red fruit taste in mouth, but soon have a feeling of fed up as the tastes are "too rich"
The biggest problem is that she is too oaky, bad feelings on palate

This is definitely not the first choice of the same price range (~HK$100)

This wine reminded me an article written by Mr Michael Broadbent in his column in Decanter (April 2005 and February 2006)
Not sure whether it is a joke or something else, Mr Broadbent suggested that wine makers can provide a bag of oak chips with the wine, drinkers can put the "oak bag" in wine when they have it so as to ensure the wine can be as oaky as possible!

What an interesting suggestion :)

星期二, 5月 02, 2006

Jacob's Creek Chardonnay Pint Noir Brut Cuvee, NV


澳洲大廠出品的汽泡酒
清爽的西柚和青檸皮及豐富的餅乾味
酸度不算太高
非常的易入口
一個人輕輕鬆鬆也會喝掉一整瓶

雖然是在瓶內進行二次發酵
可是汽泡卻不見得細緻滑溜
這點較令人失望
酒廠該想辦法改善一下

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Sparkling wine of Australian Giant
Refreshing citrus fruit and rich biscuits taste with moderate acidity
The wine herself is so approachable that everyone can have the entire bottle

One disappointing fact is that the bubbles are a bit course although she was bottle fermented
The company should work on this